Image Source: Wine with Margaret | Me taking a selfie with vineyards of Südsteiermark in the background.

The Natural Wine Movement, which emphasises minimal intervention in the vineyard and winery, has gained significant traction worldwide in recent years. This movement has found fertile ground in Austria’s Steiermark as well, especially with a new generation of young winemakers that settled in the region. However, while some celebrate this movement as a return to authenticity and purity, others in the wine community view it with scepticism, fearing that it may undermine the region's established wine styles and reputation for quality. What is your point of view on the subject? 

Personally, I might not be the right person to ask, since I genuinely enjoy a good and pure natural wine, and even fit the profile of a natural wine lover, but since our group was asked the question I could not, not write an article about it, since it is a more recent movement in Austria, to which conventional winemakers feel threatened by the younger generation and “their wines”. What would your opinion be on the matter?

Natural wine vs conventionally and authentic wines from Steiermark do not have to cannibalise each other. In fact, I think that natural wine lovers and authentic wine lovers, do not necessarily cross between lines. To it seems that there is more wine to be loved by a broader spectrum of wine lovers, and those that enjoy the authenticity of the region and its wines still have plenty of wines to enjoy. As the natural wine lovers now have something to look forward to, to enjoy alongside the wines that were already produced by the region. I think it is a good, commercial, popular wine style made with the best intentions for nature and mankind, nothing wrong with seeing the industry change a little without loosing its heritage. 

Image Source: Wine with Margaret

What Is Natural Wine?

Let me briefly address what natural wine is all about, for those that aren’t familiar with it.  Natural wine is produced with as little human intervention as possible, both in the vineyard and during the winemaking process. Key principles of natural winemaking include:

• Organic or Biodynamic Farming: But not necessarily, a natural wine isn’t naturally an organic or biodynamic wine, but it often is. Grapes are grown without synthetic pesticides, herbicides, or fertilizers. Many natural winemakers follow biodynamic practices, which consider the vineyard as an ecosystem and use preparations that are aligned with lunar cycles.
• Spontaneous Fermentation: Natural wines are typically fermented using only the native yeasts that occur naturally on the grapes and in the winery, rather than adding cultured yeasts.
• No Additives: Additives like sulphur dioxide (used to stabilise the wine and prevent spoilage), sugar (for chaptalisation), or enzymes are either minimised or completely avoided.
• Minimal Filtration and Fining: Natural wines are often bottled with minimal or no filtration, which can result in a cloudy appearance and more sediment in the bottle. Some even argue that it gives more mouthfeel to the wine. 

Image Source: Wine with Margaret

The Rise of Natural Wine in Steiermark

Steiermark's winemakers, long dedicated to expressing the unique terroir of their vineyards, have increasingly embraced the natural wine philosophy. This movement has gained momentum particularly among the younger generation of winemakers, who see natural wine as a way to reconnect with the land and produce wines that are a true reflection of the region’s natural environment.

The region’s diverse soils, cool climate, and artisanal approach to viticulture make Steiermark an ideal place for natural wine production. The wines produced in this style are often more aromatic and textural, with a distinct sense of place that can be both intriguing and challenging to conventional wine palates.

Cons and Controversies

1. Inconsistent Quality

One of the primary criticisms of natural wine is its potential for inconsistency. Because natural winemakers eschew many of the stabilising tools and techniques used in conventional winemaking, the wines can be more prone to flaws like volatile acidity, oxidation, or refermentation in the bottle. For traditional winemakers and consumers accustomed to clean, consistent wines, this unpredictability can be a significant drawback.

2. Threat to Regional Identity

Some in the Steiermark wine community worry that the growing emphasis on natural wine could dilute the region’s established identity. Steiermark has a long history of producing high- quality, terroir-driven wines, particularly from varieties like Sauvignon Blanc, Morillon (Chardonnay), and Schilcher. Critics argue that the natural wine movement’s focus on alternative methods and less conventional grape varieties could overshadow the region’s traditional wines and diminish their reputation on the global stage.

As where I believe that the natural wine lovers are still a minority within the wine loving and drinking community, and that it can never replace the wines with a true regional identity.

3. Market Confusion

Natural wine can be challenging for consumers to understand, especially if they are unfamiliar with the terminology or the stylistic differences from conventional wines. Cloudy appearances, unusual flavours, and unexpected textures can be off-putting to those who prefer classic wine profiles. This potential for confusion might create a divide between natural wine enthusiasts and those who prefer more traditional wines, complicating the marketing and positioning of Steiermark’s wines.

Image Source: Wine with Margeret, Weststeiermark

Pros of the Natural Wine Movement in Steiermark

1. Enhanced Expression of Terroir

Proponents of natural wine argue that this approach allows for a purer expression of the terroir. Without the influence of synthetic chemicals, additives, or heavy-handed winemaking techniques, the unique characteristics of Steiermark’s soils, climate, and grape varieties can shine through more clearly in the final wine.

2. Sustainability and Environmental Stewardship

Natural winemaking is closely linked to sustainable and organic farming practices, which are increasingly important to consumers and producers alike. In Steiermark, where the natural landscape is a cherished asset, with the approach of natural winemaking it helps preserve natures biodiversity, protect its soil health, and reduce the environmental impact of viticulture as low as possible.

3. Innovation and Differentiation

The natural wine movement offers a new avenue for innovation within Steiermark’s wine industry. By experimenting with spontaneous fermentation, extended skin contact (producing "orange wines"), and minimal intervention, winemakers can create distinctive wines that stand out in a crowded market. This can attract new audiences, particularly younger wine drinkers who are curious about alternative wine styles.

The Path Forward: Coexistence or Conflict?

As the Natural Wine Movement continues to grow in Steiermark, the region faces a crossroads. Many winemakers see the potential for natural wine to coexist alongside traditional styles, offering diversity and innovation within the region's wine portfolio. Others, however, worry that the movement could overshadow the hard-earned reputation for quality that Steiermark has built over decades.

The key to navigating this tension may lie in balance and education. By embracing the best practices of natural winemaking while maintaining a commitment to quality and consistency, Steiermark can offer a wide range of wine styles that cater to different tastes and preferences. Additionally, educating consumers about the differences between natural and conventional wines can help ensure that both types of wines are appreciated for their unique attributes.

Steiermark at the Crossroads

Steiermark's wine landscape is as varied and dynamic as its terroir. The rise of the Natural Wine Movement in the region presents both opportunities and challenges. For some, it represents a return to the roots of winemaking, emphasising purity and authenticity. For others, it poses a risk to the region's established identity and the consistency that has earned its wines international acclaim.

As Steiermark navigates this evolving landscape, the region's winemakers will need to strike a delicate balance between tradition and innovation. Whether through natural wine, conventional practices, or a harmonious blend of both, the goal remains the same: to produce wines that reflect the unique character of Steiermark and offer a true taste of this remarkable region.

When I was in Steiermark in April this year, I had the delight to taste several natural wines, created in the region. And with all my enthusiasm for natural wines, I am not a big fan of faulty, overly bretty or mousy wines. The wines that I had tasted were an absolute delight to experience. From amazing designs on the labels, different bottle shapes all things to grab your attention towards the bottle. This specific table with natural wines, is where this conversation happened, with one of the worried conventional winemakers of the region (intentionally left
out the name). 

Image Source: Wine with Margeret | Picture of us all together, tasting the natural wines from Steiermark, Me, Will Hill MW Candidate, Pasi Ketolainen MW, Louise Hurren, Luma Monteiro DipWSET