Image Source: Wine with Margaret. Left on picture a Klapoletz. Originally built to scare away birds to protect the grapes, today it’s also an important landmark in Steiermark. 

Steiermark, nestled in the southeastern corner of Austria, or as they say in Austria “Styria”. Often overshadowed by the more famous wine regions of France, Italy, and even other parts of Austria, Steiermark offers a unique terroir that yields some of the most intriguing and distinctive wines in Europe. The region's diverse microclimates, varied soil types, and its rich history of winemaking combine to create wines that are vibrant, expressive, and deeply reflective of their origin. Whether you're a seasoned oenophile or a curious ‘Newby’ to the world of wine, exploring Steiermark's vineyards is like unlocking a secret that has been carefully guarded for centuries, but what the Austrian’s new for decades. 

I had the utmost pleasure to come along on a trip to Steiermark in April 2024, with Concours Mondial as one of the jurors again at the Sauvignon Selection by CMB. Where this year my mind was blown away with all these amazing Sauvignon’s from Austria in particular, from Steiermark, this region at our juror table, got the most medals and highest scores (we taste blind, only know the scores afterwards). So, a region to consider when thinking about Sauvignon Blanc, as a matter of fact, you’ll hardly forget that Gruner Veltliner even exists when they showcase quality Sauvignon Blanc wines from this calibre. 

Source Image left: Austrian Wine, right: Wine with Margaret

Steiermark's Terroir is A Symphony of Nature

Every where we went, it was green all around you, as far as the eyes could see, it was green. Green fields, forests, mountain tops (if they weren’t covered in snow), and the vineyards all green. The air so pure, the sky so bright an oasis of your wildest imagination. The “oehs and ahhhs” where expressed quite considerably amongst all the jurors and other attendees, during the whole trip. The endless views leaving you mesmerised for the rest of the day. A true terroir that knows how to come through when you taste a Styrian wine. 

The Geographical Canvas

Steiermark is a region of remarkable geographical diversity. It is bordered by Slovenia to the south, Burgenland to the east, Lower Austria to the north, and the Alps to the west. This varied landscape is the foundation of its unique terroir, which is characterised by a harmonious interplay between altitude, soil, and climate.

The region is divided into three main wine-growing areas: Südsteiermark, Weststeiermark, and Vulkanland Steiermark, and I’m delighted to have the opportunity to have visited them all. Each of these sub-regions offers its own distinct expression of terroir, contributing to the region's overall complexity and appeal.

Südsteiermark: The Heart of Styrian Winemaking

Südsteiermark, or South Styria, is perhaps the most renowned of Steiermark's sub-regions. It is known for its rolling hills, which are often shrouded in mist during the early mornings. The vineyards here are planted on steep slopes, some of which can be as steep as 70%, requiring manual harvesting (obligatory).

The soils in Südsteiermark are primarily composed of marl and sandstone, known locally as "Opok." These soils are well-drained and rich in minerals, which contribute to the region's signature minerality in wines. The cool climate, influenced by the Alps, and the warm air from the Pannonian Plain create a unique microclimate that allows for a long growing season, perfect for the slow ripening of grapes.

Source Image: Wine with Margaret

Weststeiermark: The Land of Schilcher Rosé

Weststeiermark, or West Styria, is the smallest and most specialised of the Styrian wine regions. It is best known for producing Schilcher wine, a unique rosé made from the indigenous Blauer Wildbacher. The terroir here is defined by its schist and gneiss soils, which are acidic and poor in nutrients. This type of stress on the vines forces them to grow deep into the soil, resulting in wines with intense flavour and high acidity.

The climate in Weststeiermark is cooler than in the other regions, with a significant influence from the Alps. This cooler climate, combined with the poor soils, results in wines that are vibrant, fresh, and have a distinctive crispness, making them perfect for summertime drinking.

Vulkanland Steiermark: A Volcanic Legacy

Vulkanland Steiermark, or Volcano Land Styria, as its name suggests, is characterised by its volcanic soils. This sub-region located in the southeastern part of Styria, where ancient volcanic activity has left a lasting impression on the land. The soils here are rich in basalt and tuff, which impart a distinctive more smoky minerality to the wines.

Vulkanland' climate is slightly warmer and more humid than the other Styrian regions, thanks to the influence of the Pannonian Plain. This warmth allows for the cultivation of a wide variety of grape types, including Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Blanc, and Traminer. The wines from Vulkanland are known for their complex aromatics and a strong sense of place, often described as having a "smoky" or "earthy" character that reflects the volcanic origin of the soil.

Source Image: Wein Steiermark

Steiermarks Climate

The Styrian Influence: Steiermark enjoys a unique climate that is heavily influenced by its geographical location and topography. The region experiences a cool continental climate, with significant variations between the sub-regions.

Alpine Influence: The proximity of the Alps plays a crucial role in Steiermark's climate. The mountains act as a barrier, protecting the region from harsh northern winds and creating a rain shadow effect that leads to less precipitation on the southern slopes. This results in a relatively dry growing season, which is ideal for producing high-quality grapes with concentrated flavours.

Pannonian Warmth: To the east, the Pannonian Plain (from Hungary) brings warm air currents into Steiermark, especially in the southern and eastern parts of the region. This warmth helps to extend the growing season, allowing grapes to ripen fully while maintaining a balance of acidity and sugar levels. The combination of cool alpine air and the warm Pannonian influences creates a large diurnal temperature variation that is essential for developing the aromatic complexity and vibrant acidity that Styrian wines are known for.

Microclimates and Vintage Variation: Steiermark's varied topography also contributes to the creation of numerous microclimates within the region. Vineyards at higher altitudes tend to be cooler and experience a longer ripening period, resulting in wines with higher acidity and have more pronounced minerality. In contrast, vineyards located on lower, more sheltered slopes often produce wines with riper fruit flavours and softer acidity.

One of the most intriguing aspects of Steiermark's climate is the significant vintage variability. The region's weather patterns can be unpredictable, with variations in temperature, rainfall, and sunlight from year to year. This variability means that each vintage offers a unique expression of the terroir, making Styrian wines particularly exciting for collectors and enthusiasts who appreciate the nuances of different harvests.

Source Image: Austrian Wine: OeWM_WSNA_Blauer Wildbacher grape variety.

Grape Varieties: A Palette of Possibilities

Grüner Veltliner and Zweigelt are the most known two indigenous Austrian varieties in the Netherlands at least, but Steiermark on its own has a lot more to offer. Steiermark is home to a diverse range of grape varieties, each of which thrives in its local terroir. While international varieties like Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay are widely planted, Steiermark also boasts several indigenous and lesser-known varieties that contribute to the region's distinctive wine profile. With a total area of 5,109 ha under vine. 

Sauvignon Blanc: The Star of Steiermark

Sauvignon Blanc is the most widely planted grape in Steiermark, with  and is considered the region's flagship variety. The total area under vine is 965ha of Sauvignon Blanc solely, being
19% of the total plantings. The cool climate and diverse soils of Steiermark allow Sauvignon Blanc to express a wide range of styles, from zesty and herbaceous to rich and tropical.

In Südsteiermark, Sauvignon Blanc often exhibits notes of green apple, citrus, and freshly cut grass, with a pronounced minerality and a crisp, refreshing finish. In Vulkanland, the volcanic soils lend the wines a distinctive smoky character, with hints of flint and stone fruit.

Welschriesling: The Fresh Face of Styria

Welschriesling, despite its name, is not related to Riesling at all. In Steiermark, Welschriesling is often used to produce light, crisp, and aromatic wines that are perfect for early drinking. These wines are typically floral, with notes of green apple, lime, and white peach, and are known for their lively acidity and refreshing finish. The total area under vine is 746ha of Welschriesling, being 15% of the total plantings.  

Morillon: The Styrian Chardonnay

Morillon is the local name for Chardonnay in Steiermark. This variety thrives in the region's cooler climate, producing wines that are elegant, balanced, and often marked by a subtle minerality. Morillon from Südsteiermark is typically characterised by flavours of ripe apple, pear, and lemon, with a creamy texture and a hint of spice from oak aging. The total area under vine is 387ha of Chardonnay, being 7.6% of the total plantings.  

Schilcher: A Rosé Like No Other

Schilcher is a unique rosé wine made exclusively from the Blauer Wildbacher (red variety) in Weststeiermark. This wine is a true expression of its terroir, with high acidity, bright red fruit flavours, and a characteristic herbal note. Schilcher is often described as having flavours of wild strawberries, raspberries, and a hint of white pepper, making it a versatile wine that pairs
well with a variety of foods. The total area under vine is 518ha of Blauer Wildbacher, being the most planted red grape variety with 10% of the total plantings. Zweigelt comes second with 257ha, just 5% of total plantings.

Traminer: The Aromatic Jewel

Traminer, including the more aromatic Gewürztraminer, finds a natural home in Steiermark, particularly in Vulkanland. This grape variety is known for its intense floral and spice aromas, with flavours of lychee, rose petals, and ginger. The wines are often rich and full-bodied, with a slight sweetness that balances the intense aromatics. The total area under vine is 65ha of Traminer, being 1.3% of the total plantings.  

Other significant plantings are: 

• Pinot Blanc (Weissburgunder) - 690ha (13%)
• Muskateller - 580ha (11%)
• Müller-Thurgau - 163ha (3.2%)
• Pinot Gris - 162ha (3.2%)
• Scheurebe - 135ha (2.6%)
• Riesling – 72ha (1.4%)

Soil, The Foundation of Styrian Wines

The diversity of soils in Steiermark is one of the key factors that contribute to the region's unique wine styles. Each sub-region has its own distinct soil composition, which influences the flavour profile, structure, and aging potential of the wines.

Image Source: Created by Wine with Margaret: From left to right: Opok, Gneis, Tuff, Basalt

1. Opok, The Marly Marvel of Südsteiermark: Opok is a type of marl soil found predominantly in Südsteiermark. It is composed of clay and limestone, with a high mineral content that is essential for producing wines with pronounced minerality. Opok soils are well-drained, which encourages deep root growth and leads to wines that are complex, structured, and age-worthy.

2. Schist and Gneiss, The Backbone of Weststeiermark: In Weststeiermark, schist and gneiss soils dominate the landscape. These soils are acidic and poor in nutrients, which forces the vines to struggle and dig deep into the earth. The result is wines with intense concentration, high acidity, and a distinctive mineral character. Schist soils are particularly well-suited to produce Schilcher wine, giving the wine its characteristic crispness and freshness.

3. Volcanic Soils: The Soul of Vulkanland: Vulkanland Steiermark is defined by its volcanic soils, which include basalt and tuff. These soils are rich in minerals and have a high capacity for retaining heat, which helps to ripen grapes fully in the region's warm climate. The volcanic origin of the soil imparts a unique minerality and a subtle smokiness to the wines, particularly in the white varieties like Sauvignon Blanc and Traminer.

The STK Association: Guardians of Tradition and Innovation

Formation and Philosophy

The STK (Steirische Terroir und Klassik Weingüter) association was founded by 12 pioneering wineries in Steiermark. These winemakers came together with a shared vision: to protect and promote the unique terroir of Steiermark while setting rigorous standards for wine production. The STK wineries are not just producers of wine; they are custodians of the region’s viticultural heritage, blending tradition with modern winemaking techniques to produce wines of exceptional quality.

The classification includes:
⁠The Grosse and Erste STK Ried are part of the Riedenweine (single vineyards), these wines are even more exceptional, being at the top of their pyramid. 

• Gebietsweine (Regional Wines): Regional wines with a specialty trait. These wines represent the broader characteristics of the region, offering a snapshot of the terroir and climate of Steiermark.
• Ortsweine (Village Wines): Ortsweine are more focused, reflecting the unique characteristics of a specific village or municipality within Steiermark.
• Riedenweine (Single Vineyard Wines): The pinnacle of STK wines, Riedenweine are sourced from individual, top-quality vineyard sites. These wines are the most expressive of their terroir, often showcasing the nuanced differences between vineyards.
• Erste STK Ried (STK Premier Cru): These single-vineyard wines are made from late-harvested grapes from outstanding STK Rieds (single vineyards). The vines must be at least twelve years old.
• Grosse STK Ried (STK Grand Cru): Exceptional single – vineyard wines from the most exceptional single vineyards, favoured by their terroir and harvested late. Vines must be at least 15 years old. 

Sustainable Practices and Quality Standards

The STK wineries are committed to sustainable viticulture, often employing organic or biodynamic farming practices. This commitment to sustainability ensures the preservation of the region’s biodiversity and soil health, while also producing wines that are free of synthetic chemicals and additives. The STK association's rigorous quality standards also dictate lower yields, hand-harvesting, and extended aging processes to ensure that only the best wines bear the STK trademark.

STK's Signature Styles and the Peculiarities

Each of the 12 wineries in the STK association brings its own unique style and signature to the wines, contributing to the diversity and richness of Styria’s wine landscape.

• Weingut Neumeister: A pioneer in sustainable winemaking, Neumeister's wines are marked by their precision and purity, particularly their Sauvignon Blanc, which is characterised by intense minerality and bright acidity.
• Weingut Winkler-Hermaden: Known for its robust reds and elegant whites, particularly their Traminer, which is often aged in large wooden casks, adding a subtle spice to the wine.
• Weingut Hannes Sabathi: Renowned for its innovative approach and dedication to terroir- driven wines, Hannes Sabathi excels in producing expressive Sauvignon Blancs and Morillons. The wines from this estate are known for their vibrant acidity, intense fruit concentration, and a distinctive minerality that reflects the volcanic soils of Vulkanland.
• Weingut Gross: Specialises in Riedenweine, with their Morillon being praised for its complexity and age-worthiness. Their wines exhibit a rich texture, balanced by a flinty minerality.

Steiermark's Place in the World of Wine

Steiermark is a region that truly encapsulates the essence of terroir-driven winemaking. Its diverse soils, unique climate, and diversity of grape varieties come together to create wines that are not only reflective of their origin but also stand out for their quality and character. Whether it's the minerality of a Südsteiermark’ Sauvignon Blanc, the crisp acidity of a Weststeiermark Schilcher wine, or the aromatic complexity of a Vulkanland Traminer, Steiermark offers a wine experience that is both unique and deeply satisfying.

While the wines of the STK association have long been cherished by Austrian wine lovers, as the world of wine continues to evolve, Steiermark is poised to gain greater recognition on the international stage. For those who seek out wines with a sense of place, Steiermark is a region that should not be overlooked. It is a testament to the idea that great wines are born from the land, nurtured by the climate, and crafted with passion and precision. In Steiermark, the symphony of nature, tradition, and innovation plays out in every bottle, offering a taste of Austria that is as unforgettable as it is sounds.

A special thanks to Concours Mondial for inviting me again this year (2024), to be able to meet new and incredibly inspiring and interesting people and seeing my friends again. 

From left to right: Sharon Nagel (UK), Me: Margot van Lieshout (NL), our sommelier, Símone Roveda (IT), Alain Desprats (FR), Johannes Fiala (AUS)