Georgia, a land steeped in winemaking tradition and rich cultural heritage, is renowned for its ancient winemaking techniques and diverse grape varieties. In this article, I’m going to talk about the insights shared by two prominent Georgian winemakers, Yvo Stoots from Sopho's Family Winery and Lado Robakidze from Ethno Winery, as they offer their perspectives on Georgian winemaking, sustainability, emerging trends, and the unique qualities of Georgian wines. They also hit the marks when it comes to emerging wine trends for 2024, which you can read here. As the originality and authenticity of Georgian wines, especially those made in Qvevri tickles the tastebuds of us millennials. We sure like to discover new regions and wine styles; we are searching for that ultimate experience to talk about amongst friends, as where Georgian wine and its tradition fit right into. 

Where Georgia is one of those emerging wine regions for us to keep an eye out for, this is also acknowledged by both Lado and Yvo, as where they put the emphasis on their indigenous varieties, traditional winemaking techniques, and heritage, as for their deep respect for the land. 

We might even say that the resurgence of Qvevri winemaking hits the spot on all natural wine lovers’ agenda. It is difficult not to ‘enter the scene’ of Natural Wine Fairs anywhere to not find wines made in Qvevri, as where Lado states so perfectly; “…there is a strong alignment between the two philosophies…”. 

What can I say, Georgian wine is all in the game! Read the interview to find out more about the Georgian winemaking culture and how they look towards the future of Georgian wine and their ancient heritage.

Influence of Qvevri Winemaking on Flavour Profiles

Q: How has the traditional method of Qvevri winemaking influenced the flavour profiles and characteristics of Georgian Wines?

Yvo emphasizes the role of terroir, including climate, soil, geography, grape variety, cultivation techniques, and local traditions, in shaping the flavour profiles of Georgian wines. He highlights the unique characteristics imparted by qvevri winemaking, such as full-bodied tannic structures and earthy flavours in red wines, and the complex, full-bodied nature of amber wines made from white grapes.

Lado also elaborates on the influence of indigenous grape varieties and traditional winemaking techniques, particularly the use of qvevri for extended skin contact and natural temperature regulation. He explains how the combination of indigenous grape varieties, the local terroir, and their centuries-old winemaking traditions contributes to the diversity of flavours in Georgian regional wines. He points out that it seems that the grape varieties that are cultivated in different Georgian winemaking regions, are all different as they adopt the local geography, soil, and climate as their own. This included with the local vineyard management and winemaking traditions all together help influence the unique flavour profiles of Georgian regional wines. 

The Qvevri itself as a neutral vessel doesn’t have any direct influence on the flavour of the wine inside, but together with traditional winemaking techniques – long maceration time with skins and sometimes even ripe stems are the preconditions of forming its unique flavour. 

Role of Indigenous Grape Varieties

Q: Could you describe the role of indigenous grape varieties in Georgian Winemaking? How do they contribute to the diversity of Georgian wines?

Yvo underscores the significance of Georgia's over 500 indigenous grape varieties in shaping the country's winemaking landscape. He discusses how these grape varieties, adapted to local terroirs, offer a wide range of flavour profiles, from bold and tannic to refreshing and fruity, thereby contributing to the diversity of Georgian wines.

Lado also echoes the importance of Georgia’s indigenous grape varieties in Georgian winemaking, emphasising their connection to the land and cultural heritage. He elaborates on how these grape varieties express unique aromas, flavours, and textures, reflecting the specific terroir of which they are grown.

Challenges and Opportunities in the Global Wine Market

Q: Are there any challenges that you face or opportunities for you in today’s global wine market?

Yvo views the global wine market as ripe with opportunities for Georgian wines, given their historical significance, unique flavour profiles, and growing international interest. He sees challenges in terms of market recognition and access but believes that Georgia's rich winemaking heritage and distinctive offerings position it well for success.

Lado acknowledges the challenges of market recognition but sees opportunities in the increasing demand for authentic and natural wines. He believes that Georgia's commitment to sustainable practices and its alignment with emerging trends in the global wine market provide avenues for growth and expansion.

Alignment of Natural Wine Philosophy with Traditional Georgian Winemaking

Q: The concept of ‘natural wine’ has gained its popularity, also onto the Dutch market recently. But it is still a small group that are the enthusiasts here, slowly but steadily growing due to an increasing demand each year. How does this philosophy of ‘natural wine’ align with traditional Georgian winemaking methods according to you?

Yvo highlights the inherent alignment between natural winemaking and the traditional Georgian winemaking methods, particularly the use of qvevri and its minimal intervention practices. He emphasises the purity and authenticity of Georgian wines all crafted in harmony with nature.

Lado explains how the philosophy of natural wine resonates with traditional Georgian winemaking. Also emphasising that both philosophies show minimal intervention, indigenous yeast fermentation, and a deep respect for the land. He sees this alignment as a reflection of Georgia's commitment to authenticity and quality. Both philosophies typically avoid or limit filtration and fining processes, which helps maintain the wine's natural character. Lado states:

Sustainable Practices in Winemaking

Q: Can you highlight any sustainable or environmentally friendly practices that you are commonly using?

Yvo emphasises sustainable practices such as organic farming, minimal chemical inputs (only minimal SO2 added to the wines), and biodiversity promotion in the vineyard. He believes that these practices not only ensure the longevity of the ecosystem but also contribute to the production of pure, high-quality wines.

As where Lado outlines the sustainable practices adopted by Ethno Winery, including organic vineyard management, spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeasts, and minimal use of added SO2. He underscores the importance of these practices in preserving the terroir and creating wines that authentically reflect their origins.

Emerging Trends and Innovations

Q: Are there any emerging trends or innovations in Georgian winemaking that you find particularly exciting or promising or maybe some you don’t like to see evolving? Can you elaborate?

Yvo notes the growing popularity of traditional qvevri winemaking methods in Georgia, as well as a resurgence of interest in indigenous grape varieties. He expresses a preference for traditional winemaking techniques, believing that they contribute to the unique character and marketability of Georgian wines.

Lado highlights the emergence of small to medium-sized wineries, a young generation of winemakers embracing their ancient traditions, and experimentation with winemaking techniques. He sees these developments as transformative for Georgian winemaking, contributing to innovation while honouring its tradition.

Balancing Tradition and Innovation

Q: Balancing tradition and innovation can be a challenge in winemaking. How do you approach combining the ancient Qvevri techniques with modern winemaking practices when crafting your amber wines?

Yvo advocates for honouring tradition while embracing modern tools and techniques to maintain the highest quality standards. He believes that this approach allows for the preservation of traditional winemaking practices while enhancing efficiency and consistency.

Lado stresses the importance of finding equilibrium between tradition and innovation, recognising the value of both in crafting wines that resonate with consumers. He sees this balance as essential for preserving Georgian winemaking heritage while remaining relevant in a dynamic market.

The Evolving Perception of Amber Wines

Q: The international wine community has shown increased interest in Amber wines. How
do you see the perception of these wines evolving over the next few years, both in Georgia and on a global scale?

Yvo predicts a continued interest in amber wines, considering them as flagship products of Georgian winemaking due to their unique flavours and cultural significance. He sees opportunities for storytelling and brand building around amber wines, capitalising on their distinctiveness in the global market.

Lado agrees with the growing interest in amber wines, viewing it as part of a broader trend towards authenticity and exploration in the wine world. He believes that amber wines, with their rich flavours and versatility, have the potential to appeal to a diverse range of consumers and enhance Georgia's reputation as a wine-producing nation.

Highlighting the Unique Qualities of Amber Wines

Q: Could you share any last anecdotes or experiences that highlight the unique qualities of Amber wines and how they resonate with consumers who may be new to this style of wine? 

Yvo emphasises the importance of educating consumers about amber wines, explaining their distinctive flavours and characteristics. He believes that transparency and storytelling are key to helping consumers appreciate the unique qualities of Georgian wines.

Lado shares an anecdote about showcasing Georgian wines to a group of Japanese wine professionals, highlighting the versatility of Georgian wines and their ability to complement diverse cuisines. He sees this as a testament to the universal appeal of Georgian wines and their potential to captivate new audiences.

I got into contact with both winemakers at the Georgian Wine Fair in September 2023, organised by Ghislaine Melman from Melman Communications and Bleeker Wine import / Ghivino. I had an amazing time, tasting all kinds of Georgian wines, from different winemakers, with all different and yet similar approaches to their wine making. During this afternoon, I got talking with both winemakers of whom I afterwards send an email with my questions as read above. In the Netherlands you can buy the wines from at Ghivino.nl.

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Tasting Notes

Let me share some of their amazing wines, of which I was delighted to have a taste during.

Ethno Winery & Tasting Notes

Ethno is a Georgian winery that embodies the essence of organic winemaking, hidden in the unique micro-climates of the villages of Manavi, Khashmi and Shilda in Kakheti. It was founded by two passionate enthusiasts who share a deep appreciation for the natural lifestyle and are fully committed to producing exceptional wines that capture the unique flavours of their terroir. Their commitment to natural and organic methods run deep. 

The Terroir Manavani PDO
⁠Located on the southern foothills of the mountain range Tsiv-Gombori and the valley near the river Lori. Located at 600-700 meters above sea level. You’ll find continental climate, with moderately humidity, mild winters, and warm long summers. Here the roots stand in the Meadow-brown soils (old alluvial), with a fossil layer at 80-100 cm in depth. 

1. Ethno Kakhuri Mtsvane – Rkatsiteli 2019 - 13% – Qvevri (Amber, Dry)
⁠My personal tasting note: Floral, nutty, anise, apple, expressive, caramelised pear, honey, melon, minerality, saltiness. Beautifully layered with lots to offer on every sip you take. Great texture and balance in the wine. 

2. Ethno Kakhuri Mtsvane – Rkatsiteli 2021 - 13% – Qvevri (Amber, Dry)
6-7 months maceration on the skins than the 2019.
⁠My personal tasting note:This wine shows more tannins, more structure, fuller bodied, but still has that amazing aroma palate, give it some time to open up to you and it will be amazing. 

3. Ethno Rkatsiteli, 14% - Qvevri (Amber, Dry)
⁠My personal tasting note: This wine has a riper profile to its flavours with notes of raisins, apricots, nuts, orange peel, lovely structure, and amazing body. The wine smell so pure. 

The Terroir Khaskmi PDO
⁠Located in the viticultural subzone of Gare Kakheti, an administrative distinct of Sagarejo, on the Southwestern slopes of the mountain range of Tsiv-Gombori, on the left bank of the river Lori. Located at 730-800 meters above sea level. The soil composition over here is brown carbonate, thick, heavy, and light clay with mechanical content on very slightly inclined slopes. 

4. Ethno Saperavi, Khaskmi 2019, 14% - Qvevri (Red, Dry)
⁠My personal tasting note: Full bodied, fruit forward, black fruits everywhere to discover in your mouth, blackcurrant, plum, leather, herbal, dark chocolate, easy to please, but surely not to be underestimated with such power, refreshing acidity. 

5. Ethno Saperavi 2021, 14% – Qvevri (Red, Dry)
⁠My personal tasting note: The 2021 more friendly and open, spice, black fruits, softer, still structure, but everything is gentler than the 2019 vintage. More moderate tannins, nice and juicy with a lingering finish. 

Kindzmarauli PDO, specifically Shilda village

⁠Nine hectares of top-quality organic vineyards located in the village of Shilda on the valley of Alazani river, in Kakheti. Dedicated exclusively to Saperavi, grapes are handpicked and pressed, spontaneous fermentation on its wild yeasts in Qvevri. 

6. Ethno Saperavi 2019, 14% – Qvevri (Red, Dry)
⁠My personal tasting note: This wine showed me some notes of toast, blackberry, blackcurrant, forest floor, leather. Quite interesting, amazing texture and full body with a lingering juicy acidity in the finish. 

Sopho’s Family Winery & Tasting Notes

Is founded in 2018 by Sophia Muchiauri and her Dutch husband Yvo Stoots. After Yvo fell in love with the Georgian wine making methods, the rich history and culture, he saw the commercial possibilities, combined with the childhood dream of Sophia (Sopho) they started Sopho's Family Winery. Sopho's Family Winery aims to make the highest quality wines, as natural as possible. Since 2021 we produce Traditional Georgian Qvevri wines as well as European Vinification wines in stainless steel. Full production in house in the region of Mukuzani, Kakheti. 90% of the grapes used for their wines come from their own vineyards. Which are fully organic maintained. 

Sopho's Tavkveri (grape) Rosé - 2020, 13.5% (Rosé dry)
⁠A rosé wine that truly makes you happy, putting a smile on your face. Good childhood memories of cherry flavoured candy, some spiciness, pungent, giving a kick, lovely texture with good acidity. 

Sopho's Rkatsiteli Amber 2020, 14.5% (Orange, dry)
Five months in stainless steel with full skin contact.
⁠⁠⁠My personal tasting note: Fruit forward with lots of tannin structure a full-bodied wine. Aromas of dried fruits like apricots, mango, wild peaches. 

Sopho's Rkatsiteli - 2021, 13% – Qvevri (Amber, dry)
⁠203 days completely submerged in qvevri
⁠⁠My personal tasting note: A lot more complexity, nuttiness, dried fruits like mango, peach, apricots, quince so many layers to discover when you taste, even a hint of caramel. Full-bodied wine. 

Sopho's The Happymaker, 100% Saperavi, Mukuzani - 2021, 13% (red, dry)  
⁠Stainless steel tanks, without skin contact.
⁠⁠My personal tasting note: Tastes almost as the Tavkveri Rosé only with the tannins, it does its name justice “the Happymaker”. Almost Beaujolais like, acidity, red cherries, brambles, blackcurrants, wood, pine trees hidden somewhere. All good layers of lovely wine to discover. 

Sopho's Tavkveri (grape) - 2019 (Red, dry)
⁠⁠My personal tasting note: Cassis, herbal, raisins, wild forest berries, and earthy flavours zingy, good tannins with a full body, lovely, exciting wine, that keeps you interested with every taste. 

Sopho's Saperavi Red qvevri – 2021
⁠Will be added later.

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If you want to get into contact you can find their information to click on the link.
⁠Ghislaine Melman from Melman Communications and Bleeker Wine import / Ghivino when you want to buy their wines in the Netherlands.