Wine with Margaret

Never Miss a Sip

From Soil to Sip: How Geography and Geology Define Georgian Wine.

A Journey Through Georgia as a Wine Growing Country.

Margot van Lieshout
Qvevri in Georgian Country Side

Well, there I was searching the net for any news on the wine industry that could help me with elaborate on some of my D3 Exam studies, just to get more inside knowhow on certain wine regions. As I lost myself into moments of scrolling mindlessly on the internet I came across the site of the Napa Valley Wine Academy where they offered a “Wines of Georgia” online course and I was more than eager to learn more about Georgia and the actual true origin of wine. 

I started wondering why at WSET Diploma, we do not have a class dedicated about Georgia and the history of wine, alongside the story we all have heard before. Just to get a better understanding about how it all went down. As for me that would be the ultimate beginning into
understanding wine, in my opinion anyways. That is why I wanted to share this extensive article on ‘the basics’ of Georgia as a wine producing country. 

So, I set myself a whole week to fully dive into to Georgia and its wines to study it extensively. I watched a documentary about Georgia and its wines on Wine Masters TV, and I ordered myself several wines from the Dutch Ghvino Georgian Wineshop to get myself more acquainted with the taste of Georgian wine. Let me share something I’ve learned, in all my enthusiasm, about the three major Georgian wine regions. There was even so much that I wanted to talk about and share with you that I’ve written three articles about Georgia and its wines. This way you get a pretty good understanding of Georgia and its wines. I even interviewed several Georgian winemakers as to their opinion on winemaking and its ancient wine styles. 

From Soil to Sip: How Geography and Geology Define Georgian Wine.

A Journey Through Georgia as a Wine Growing Country.

In the heart of the South Caucasus, where Europe and Asia converge and the Caucasus Mountains cradle the country, lies a land rich in history, culture, and wine. The country is bordered west by the Black Sea, on the east to Azerbaijan and south it’s bordered by Turkey and Armenia, where to the North it is separated from Russia by the Caucasus Mountains. Georgia is considered one of the world's oldest wine growing countries in the world, that offers various indigenous grape varieties and winemaking traditions that beckon both connoisseurs and curious oenophiles like us.

To truly appreciate the essence of Georgian wine, it is an absolute must try to indulge yourself with a good glass of Georgian wine when reading about one of the most interesting wine countries out there, trust me. Let me take you on a brief journey through this amazing country. 

Georgia’s Major growing regions are Kakheti, Imereti and Kartli, you can read all about them in this next article. Above you’ll find a regional map of Georgia and its associated grapes. Of which North to Russia, it borders the Caucasus Mountains. Georgia’s growing regions counterclockwise from the Black Sea to the Caucasus Mountains are: 
⁠Adjacent to the Black Sea: 

  • Abkhazia 
  • Samegrelo
  • Guria 
  • Adjara
  • More Inland: Imereti
  • Meskheti
  • Kartli
  • Kakheti
  • Racha
  • Lechkhumi

Georgia’s Geography, Topography, Climate & Soils

Generally, you can divide the Georgian Wine Country into three climatical zones: 

Zone 1: Subtropical Climate

When on the west side of Georgia near the Black Sea the country has a subtropical climate. The Black Sea brings in warmth and humidity to the western coastal areas. The summers here can be warm and humid, while the winters are mild and cool. There is an abundance of rainfall
throughout the year. 

Zone 2: Continental Climate

The continental climate you can find profoundly on the eastern side of the country. These regions have a vast difference between seasonal temperatures, with potentially very hot summers and very cold winters. These regions are typically not influenced by masses of water. Because of these non-moderating influences, there is quite a high diurnal shift present in day and nighttime temperatures and the further inland the broader the spectrum. This is a desert like climate, being hot and dry and there is little rainfall throughout the seasons. 

Zone 3: Alpine Climate

Both to the north and the south of Georgia, the climate has an Alpine influence bringing in the cold due to the altitude in this mountainous region of the country. The mountains themselves are very cold, and because of that there is a cold flow of air running down the mountains into
the lower parts of Georgia, causing the (sometimes extreme) cooling influences. Mostly it is very cold with an abundance of snow present on the mountains. 

Geographical Factors

The Black Sea, rivers with its estuaries, several valleys, and its plains, and don’t forget the massive Caucasus Mountain Range. All these geographical factors play its role in influencing Georgia’s wine growing regions. 

  • The Black Sea has a moderating effect on the climate, reducing both very hot and very cold conditions in the vineyards near the coast. It also increases the humidity in the vineyard, the susceptibility of fungal diseases like Powdery and Downy Mildew. 
  • Especially in the Kakheti region there are many rivers and its estuaries, which provide a valuable source of water for vines. They can also have a mild moderating influence on their vineyards, providing a cooling influence on very hot days and have a warming influence on very cold days. These rivers reflect sunlight back onto the vines, aiding in the ripening
    of the grapes. 
  • Where the valleys and plains will have a rise in temperature slightly faster during the day, than other places, which also aids in ripening grapes. Valleys and plains typically have more fertile soils which can help vines produce higher yields. From a viticultural perspective, these valleys and plains are much easier to manage for grape growers than those vineyards found on the foothills of its mountains. 
  • About 1/3 of Georgia is mountainous. The Caucasus Mountains to the north play a vital role in grape production, as they shield the bitterly cold winds and its weather from further up north and it provides the elevation and lower temperatures on its foothills further into the continental parts of the country, where the summers can be quite hot. Mountains typically provide cooler growing conditions for grapes due to its altitude, which slows down ripening and helping to preserve the acidity. Soils here are typically less fertile which can help to maintain lower yields and helps to concentrate the flavours within the grapes. 

Get Dirty With Me?  

The Georgian soils are very diverse and scattered in difference all over the country. Where the Black Sea region is known to have more sandy, pebbly soils, as do the mountainous regions. The growing areas near rivers and its estuaries have obviously more alluvial soils. Eastern parts of Georgia are known to have heavier clay soils. There are three basic soil types
found in Georgia. 

Alluvial Soils

These soils are common in the Kakheti region, east of Georgia, and around the rivers that flow into the Black Sea. These soils, created by rivers and estuaries are a mixture of clay, silt, sand and gravel, and are known to be very fertile. Alluvial soils have the ability to absorb heat from
the sun, which aids the ripening of the grapes. They have a different reaction to holding water, the clay elements capture the water while the sand and gravel particles in the soil provide excellent drainage. The balance these soils have; with its heat retention and its fertility they produce ripe grapes and healthy yields.

Black Soils

Very nutrient rich black soils, also called ‘Chernozem’ soils, have a high percentage of organic matter (humus) and can be found in parts of the Kakheti growing region. The cool fact about these black soils is that because of its colour and the high content of organic matter in the soil
it will absorb the suns heat quite easily and helps with the ripening process of the grapes. Along side that the humus has good water holding capacities and can hold a great deal of water, which helps during long periods of drought. Due to its high fertility and its water holding capacity these soils can produce very high yields and will most likely produce wines with less intensity and complexity. 

White Soils

White soils also known in Georgia as ‘carbonate' soils, they are highly alkaline and easily penetrable by the roots of vines on their search for water and other nutrients. Mostly found in the western parts of Georgia, such as the regions of Imereti and Samegrelo and Guria. 

The amazing part about these soils is they hold their sunlight which keeps the soil warm which in turn aids in the ripening of the grapes. They also can hold a great deal of water, assisting the vine during periods of drought, while also draining successfully. Which in the western part
of the country is a good thing, seen there can be quite some precipitation throughout the year. 

The effect this carbonate soils have on the wines in general, that it promotes the high acidity part in the wine. The lack of fertility helps keep the yields low and can increase flavour and aroma intensity. 

Grapes of the Caucasus: Indigenous Varieties Shaping Georgian Wine

There are over 500 indigenous grape varieties known to Georgia, to put it in perspective, that is 1/6th of the worlds total, and there are still more varieties to discover. The total area under
vine is about 50,000 hectares and is divided in 75% for white grape varieties and 25% for red grape varieties. But all these varieties create wines in a range of styles, for modern day easier drinking wines to traditional refreshing amber wines, fortified and sparkling wines. In Tablisi there is a National Grape Collective, where all the vines are stored.

Georgia’s Whites

The major white grape varieties of the Kakheti growing region are Mtsvane, and Rkatsiteli. Where the major white grapes of Imereti are; Tsitska, Krakhuna and Tsolikouri

  • Rkatsiteli [KATS-I-TELI]: Meaning “red stem” and counts for 43% of the country’s plantings in white grape varieties. This variety is well suited for production of various styles of wine, modern style white wine, amber wine, sparkling, sweet wines, fortified and they even produce brandy made from Rkatsiteli. As a vine it is a late budding variety, so it avoids spring frosts, which is convenient within this climate to say the least. It has a high cumulation of sugar during ripening season, which leads to high alcoholic wines, it also retains its high acidity. When grown at high yields, it can lack flavour intensity, but moderating its yields it can show a complexity of flavours, of apple, peach, quince, but also the complexity carried in the wine being made as an amber wine, with flavours of orange peel, nuttiness, and an amazing texture to the palate. 
  • Mtsvane [MAH-TS-VAH-NAY]: The “Green of Kakheti”, it is one of Georgia’s oldest white varieties and grows best on calcareous soils, of which the Kakheti region has its calcareous soil pockets. This variety is typically blended with Rkatsiteli to add some acidity to the wine and helps the wine in its flavour profile with some aromas of peach and blossom. As to which you might say that Mtsvane balances out ‘the extremes’ of Rkatsiteli. 
  • Tsitska [SEETS - KA]: This variety is almost exclusively found in Imereti and you can find it in various styles as to modern style white wine, skin contact wines, blended (or not) and as a sparkling wine. You can discover flavours of pear and melon and has natural high acidity.  
  • Krakhuna [CRACK-SHOO-NA]: Also, Krakhuna is mainly found in the region of Imereti. It is a difficult to grow variety, because it has thin skins and is prone to most fungal diseases. And being in Imereti and near the Black Sea, there is more than enough rainfall to being a threat. It can retain its acidity quite well, even while accumulating sugar. In a wine this variety adds body, flavours of banana, apricots, honey, and dried herbs with age. 
  • Tsolikouri [SO-LI-KORI]: In Central and the western parts of Georgia like Imereti, is where you can find Tsolikouri. It is a late ripening variety, thick skinned and needs ample warmth to become fully ripe. To a blend it adds characteristics of pear, peach and blossom and is full bodied. It comes in various styles of dry and sweet wines. 

Georgia’s Robust Red Grapes

Saperavi, the king of all red varieties in Georgia, where it is widely planted throughout the country up until their highest vineyards (best quality grapes). It is Georgia’s most important variety for red wines today. 

  • Saperavi [SAP-PER-RAVI]: Is a hardened and easy to grow variety of which its origin can be found in the Kakheti region, it can survive the hard winter freeze. It has moderate yields, ripe flavours, and tannings. It has an inky black colour, because of its dark coloured skins, has high acidity, high sugar accumulation leading to high alcoholic wines, high tannins, but mainly when aged in Qvevri, and is full bodied. You can discover an abundance of flavours, blackberry, black cherries, black plum, blackcurrants, tar, liquorice, and orange peel. With age it develops flavours like leather, tobacco, chocolate, and coffee. 
  • Dzelshavi: “old black / black tree” Mainly found in Imereti as early as the 5th century. It gives medium bodied reds, with aromas of red fruit, herbal and smokey characteristics. 
  • Ighia: Found mainly in Kakheti, has very transparent skins, very pale, which leads to little extraction in colour and tannins, they almost create rosé like wines. You can find aromas of black pepper, cherry, and red berry flavours. 
  • Otskhanuri Sapere: Found in Imereti. Wines made of Otskhanuri are bold in flavour and have a very vivid structure, deep ruby colour, powerful floral notes, and forest fruits, has a good tannin structure and high acidity. 
  • Tavkveri: “hammerhead” It gets its name “hammerhead” from the shape of its bunches; it has a distinctive flat-topped berries. Specifically found in the Kartli region and is also used as a table grape. It gives wines aromas of candied strawberries and red fruit, works well with oak maturation. 

Geography and geology play a paramount role in defining Georgian wines, influencing everything from grape cultivation to winemaking techniques. The diverse landscape of Georgia, characterised by its mountain ranges, river valleys, and coastal plains, creates a mosaic of microclimates that nurture a wide array of indigenous grape varieties. The country's unique climatic zones, ranging from warm Mediterranean to Alpine, provide ideal conditions for grape ripening and flavour development.

Moreover, Georgia's varied soils, including alluvial, Chernozem (black), and carbonate soils (white), contribute distinct characteristics to the wines. Alluvial soils, rich in nutrients and with excellent drainage, foster grapevine health and optimal ripening. Black soils, high in organic
matter, absorb heat and retain water, resulting in wines with richness and depth. White soils, alkaline and well-draining, impart high acidity and intensity to the wines.

Overall, the marriage of Georgia's geography and geology creates a diverse terroir that shapes the flavours, aromas, and textures of its wines, making them truly unique expressions of their land. In my next article we will discuss the Ancient Georgian Winemaking Techniques by Qvevri, click here if you want to read it. In the meantime, I hope you have learned something about Georgia as a winegrowing region. 

All the images I've used are a collection given by Wines of Georgia. If you want to use them, you have to ask their permission.

Sources: 

Napa Valley Academy: Wines of Georgia Course, Got My Personal Course Degree June 2023

Wines of Georgia Official Website

Book: Uncorking the Caucasus: Wines From Turkey, Armenia, And Georgia - August 30, 2016

Book: The Wines of Georgia - November 25, 019