Image Source: Austrian Wine, OeWM Robert Herbst Weststeiermark.
This article was written after the judging competition in April 2024, organised by the Sauvignon Collection by Concours Mondial de Bruxelles, while attending as a wine judge during this time.
When most people think of Austria, they conjure images of snow-capped Alps, classical music, and if you are like me maybe you are thinking of Prinses Sissi and her beautiful dresses, perhaps when sipping from a glass of Grüner Veltliner or Riesling. Yet, nestled within Austria’s southern region of Steiermark, there lies a unique, maybe a too well-hidden wine route that perhaps too little of us seem to know about, known as the Schilcher Wine Route. This route is the beating heart of Austria's rosé wine tradition, producing a distinct wine that few outside Austria have heard of but once tasted, it will never be forgotten. Welcome to the world of Schilcher, a rosé that encapsulates the rugged beauty and the region’s terroir.
Weststeiermarks Beautiful Terroir
The Schilcher wine route winds through the Western part of Steiermark, a region haracterized by rolling hills, steep vineyards, and lush forests. This is Austria’s green heart, where the landscapes are as varied as the wines themselves. The vineyards here are perched on hillsides, some at dizzying altitudes, where they bask in the sun during the day and cool down rapidly at night. These hills, rising to altitudes between 300 to 600 meters above sea level, creating a patchwork of microclimates that are vital to the character of Schilcher wines. Steiermark seen as a total wine growing region has 5,109 ha of area under vine, subregion Weststeiermark only counts 655 ha and is the smallest vine growing subregion of Steiermark.
Image Source: Wine with Margaret, panoramic view from Weststeiermark at Weingut Langmann.
The Climate: Where Extremes Meet Balance
Steiermark is known for its dramatic climate, which plays a crucial role in shaping the character of Schilcher wines. The region experiences a continental climate with significant diurnal temperature variation, meaning hot days and cool nights. This temperature swing is essential for preserving the grape's acidity while allowing full phenolic ripeness, a balance that is key to the vibrant, refreshing profile of Schilcher wine.
The climate in Steiermark is heavily influenced by two major geographical features: the nearby Alps and the Adriatic Sea, which is unexpectedly close by. The Alps act as a barrier, blocking cold northern winds, while the Adriatic brings in warm, moist air from the south. This confluence creates a unique microclimate characterised by:
- High Sunshine Hours: The vineyards along the Schilcher Route enjoy long, sunny days, which are critical for ripening the magnificent, late-maturing Blauer Wildbacher.
- Significant Rainfall: The region receives ample rainfall, especially in the spring and early summer, ensuring that the vines have enough water to sustain them through the dry summer months.
- Cooling Nights: Even during the peak of summer, temperatures drop significantly at night. This diurnal variation helps to maintain the grape’s acidity, resulting in wines that are crisp and lively.
Image Source: Wine with Margaret, Gneis Rock
Weststeiermark’ Diverse and Unique Soil Composition
Did you know that Weststeiermark’s soil composition is one of the most diverse in Austria, contributing to the distinctive taste profile of Schilcher. The region's geological history has blessed it with a variety of soil types:
- Opok: A marl and clay-rich water retaining soil, allowing vines to thrive even in the heat of summer. This soil type is particularly favourable for creating wines with a firm structure and pronounced acidity.
- Schiefer: The slate-rich soils, particularly prevalent in the more elevated vineyards, lend a mineral edge to the wines. Blauer Wildbacher grown on schist soils often has a flinty, almost smoky profile, adding complexity to the bright red and black fruit flavours.
- Chalk: Limestone-rich soils are less common, but you’ll find chalk-pockets along the route. these soils impart a subtle elegance and elevated aromatic profile to the wines, balancing the natural acidity of the Blauer Wildbacher.
West Styria’s Grape Varieties
Home of the Schilcher rosé and therefore the Blauer Wildbacher, but which other varieties are grown in the region. The region is planted with 65% red varieties and 35% white varieties. There is a total of 425 ha planted with red grape varieties, of which 406 ha are planted with the Blauer Wildbacher and the other most known Austrian red is Zweigelt with only a mere 9 ha.
The other 230 ha are planted with white grape varieties, of which Sauvignon Blanc is the most planted white variety with 55 ha, closely followed by Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc) with 53ha under vine. Other varieties that are planted here are the Muskateller, Welschriesling, Chardonnay and Muscaris, Pinot Gris.
Image Source left: Austrian Wine, Blauer Wildbacher, right: Wine with Margaret, Schilcher rosé
Blauer Wildbachers Peculiarities - A Grape Like No Other
The Schilcher rosé owes its existence to a single grape variety: the Blauer Wildbacher. Indigenous to Styria, Blauer Wildbacher is a red grape known for its high acidity and robust tannins. It is a late-ripening variety, requiring patience and careful vineyard management to reach its full potential. The grape's thick skins are packed with anthocyanins, contributing to the wine's intense pink rosé colour.
A Symphony of the Unexpected
Schilcher rosé is a wine that defies all expectations. It is not a simple, fruit-driven rosé, but rather a complex and often challenging wine that rewards those who appreciate its nuances. Maybe you can say that it is an acquired taste, but when you get accustomed to the rosé, it grows on you. The wine is typically dry and exhibits a pronounced acidity, making it incredibly refreshing. On the palate, Schilcher offers a medley of flavours:
- Red Currants & Cranberries: You can say that these bright, tart fruits are the hallmark of Schilcher, providing a mouthwatering freshness.
- Herbal Notes: Often, there are underlying hints of herbs such as nettel, thyme or rosemary, reflecting the wild nature of the Blauer Wildbacher.
- Spicy Undertones: For those that feel adventurous, the wine has a common peppery finish, adding another layer of complexity and intrigue to the wine.
- Minerality: Depending on the soil, Schilcher can have a distinctive mineral character, particularly in wines that come from schist and limestone soils.
I was lucky to experience several different Schilcher rosé’s during my time spend in Weststeiermark, when visiting Weingut Lex Langman at the Schilcher wine route. At the end of the article, you can read my concise tasting notes of several tasted Schilcher wines.
Image Source: Wein Steiermark: Weststeiermark | From Ligist to Eibiswald
The Schilcher Wine Route: A Wine Lover’s Dream Trail
When on the bus, after our morning of judging all kinds of Sauvignon Blanc, we went on an exciting bus ride to our next destination, Weingut Lex Langmann for a quite unique tasting of Schilcher wine (notes below). On the route the only thing you could see was that everything was so green, I live nearby the forest myself, but it felt like it was a different kind of green, nothing like I’ve ever seen before in my life…
The Schilcher Route is not just about wine; it’s a journey through a region steeped in tradition and natural beauty. The route stretches from Ligist in the north to Eibiswald in the south, passing through picturesque villages and towns like Stainz, Deutschlandsberg, and Schwanberg. Along the way, you can, if you like to, stop at numerous wineries, each offering their unique expression of Schilcher wine (and more). Let me give you some more details on this 70km long wine route, when you want to explore it for yourself.
- Ligist: The northern gateway to the Schilcher Route, Ligist is known for its small, family-run wineries. The wines here are often more delicate, with a focus on purity and expression of the grape.
- Stainz: The cultural heart of the region, Stainz is home to some of the most historic wineries. The wines here tend to be more structured, reflecting the rich soils of the area.
- Deutschlandsberg: This town is known for its robust and intense Schilcher wines, often with a pronounced mineral backbone.
- Eibiswald: As the southernmost point of the route, Eibiswald is where the influence of the Adriatic Sea is most felt, resulting in slightly fuller, more aromatic wines.
More information on the route can be found at the bottom of the page in the Resource area, here I’ve added some extra links towards websites that tell you more on the route itself, and even downloadable routes for on your phone to take along on your hike, so you don’t get lost.
Beyond Wine: Culture, Cuisine, and Traditions
No journey along the Schilcher Route would be complete without indulging yourself in the local cuisine. The region is famous for its Steirisches Kürbiskernöl (pumpkin seed oil), a dark, nutty oil that is drizzled over salads, soups, and even vanilla ice cream. The pumpkin seed oil is even a protected designated origin in the European Union. Traditional Styrian dishes such as Backhendl (fried chicken) pair beautifully with Schilcher rosé, the acidity of the wine cutting through the richness of the food.
Conclusion: Schilcher, Austria’s Best-Kept Secret
Steiermark’s Schilcher Route offers more than just a taste of Austria’s unique rosé; it provides an immersive experience into a wine culture that is both ancient and vibrant. Schilcher is a wine that reflects its terroir—being bold, refreshing, and full of character, just like me (just kidding!). It may not be well-known outside of Austria, which to my opinion is a shame, and I hope this article will change that slightly, but for those who take the time to explore this hidden corner of Austria, Schilcher offers a journey of discovery as vibrant and lively as the wine itself.
So, the next time you find yourself in Austria, take a detour from the well-trodden paths of Vienna and Salzburg. Head south to Steiermark, follow the Schilcher Route, and raise a glass to a rosé like no other—a wine that, like the region itself, is full of surprises.
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Top Wineries to Visit Along the Schilcher Route
The Schilcher Route is home to some of Austria's most unique and traditional wineries, each offering a distinct expression of the Blauer Wildbacher grape. Here are some of the must-visit wineries along the route:
1. Weingut Langmann
Located in St. Stefan ob Stainz, Weingut Langmann is one of the most renowned producers of Schilcher. The Langmann family has been making wine for generations, and their expertise shows in their range of Schilcher wines, which are celebrated for their precision, freshness, and complexity. The winery also offers a delightful tasting experience with stunning views of the surrounding vineyards (see picture below).
Highlights:
- A wide variety of Schilcher styles, including sparkling and still versions.
- Beautiful tasting room with panoramic views.
- Guided tours of the vineyard and cellar.
Image Source: Concours Mondial, can you spot me in this group photo taken at Weingut Langmann?
2. Weingut Jöbstl
Located in Wernersdorf, near Eibiswald, Weingut Jöbstl is a family-run estate known for its commitment to quality and innovation. Their Schilcher wines are a perfect blend of tradition and modernity, with a focus on expressing the terroir of their vineyards. They also produce a range of other Styrian wines, but Schilcher remains their flagship.
Highlights:
- Award-winning Schilcher with a focus on sustainable viticulture.
- Charming tasting room and warm hospitality.
- A variety of Schilcher styles, including their premium “Schilcher Ried Sernau”.
Both wineries offer their unique perspective on Schilcher, making them worthy stops along the Schilcher Route. Whether you are seeking a deep dive into the winemaking process or simply want to enjoy a glass of vibrant, refreshing rosé in a stunning setting, these wineries provide unforgettable experiences for any wine lover.
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Tasting Notes of Schilcher Rosé
These tasting notes were taken at location, so many tasting notes share somewhat the same experience. Not that weird, seen all wines were made from one variety, but you could definately taste more complexity in certain speicic wine of instance.
Weingut Weber
1. Schilcher Klassik – 11.5%
High acidity, medium body, cranberry, raspberry, vegetal notes. Quite refreshing.
2. Stainz Schilcher 2023 – 12%
High acidity, raspberry notes, vegetal notes like nettle quite distinctive. Medium bodied, great length, juicy wine.
3. Riedenwein 2021
More concentration on the nose and the palate, slightly more bodied than the previous wine. 18m oak.
4. Weber Ried Langegg Schilcher Reserve
High concentration of flavours like raspberries, strawberries, vegetal notes like nettle, green pepper, herbal, some spice, slight bitter in the finish. Great body, good lengthy finish.
Weingut Strohmeier
5. Ried Aibl Schilcher 2023
Less expressive on the nose, nice and fruity wine, mainly red fruit characteristics. Low-medium bodied wine, medium (+) acidity.
Weingut Peiserhof
6. Eibiswald Schilcher 2023
Fruity, modern winemaking in stainless steel, well balanced in acidity and fruit flavours, beautiful body, smooth wine and lovely refreshing.
7. Ried Guntschenberg Schilcher Reserve 2021
300L oak barrels used and oak chips. Quite a balance between flavours of red fruit characteristics and its juicy acidity to a smooth mouthfeel with a hint of vanilla.
Weingut Lex Langmann
8. Stainz Schilcher 2023
Juicy, sour cherries, strawberries, refreshing acidity with a good firm body, and yet a lovely easy drinking schilcher wine.
9. Ried Hochrail 2023
Juicy, sour cherries, good concentration, full bodied, with 2 gr/L RS
10. Ried Hochrail 2021 – Magnum bottle
Higher concentration of flavours than the 2023, fuller bodied. Poured from the magnum, still fresh and awesomely fruity.
11. Ried Ella 2021
Sour cherry, strawberry, fresh red fruits, juicy acidity, slightly lactic.
12. Ried Greisdorf 2022
Sugary Ripe Schilcher, with warm climate red fruit, vegetal, even some tropical notes like guava.
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Resources:
Steiermark Commercial website – “Schilcherweinstrasse” - Accessed July 13, 2024.
Steiermark Commercial website – “Schilcher Wine Trail” - Accessed July 13, 2024.
Steiermark Commercial website – “Weststeiermark” - Accessed July 13, 2024.
Steiermark Commercial website – “Schilcher Wine Route Tour” - Accessed July 13, 2024.