Image Source: Consorzio Barbera d’Asti e Vini Del Monferrato
When I say Monferrato does it ring a bell? You’ve probably heard of Roero and the Langhe before, well Monferrato is the third main wine producing area in Piemonte. Even though it is quite a significant growing region, probably most of you never heard of the region before, or maybe not in the same sentence as Piemonte anyway. To be honest, I’ve looked it up in my WSET Diploma syllabus, and to be fair the only thing written about Monferrato is the following: “[…] Asti and Alba and the area known as the Monferrato.” Only one mention of Monferrato as a growing area when discussing Barbera as a grape variety. No other additional mention of Monferrato whatsoever. To be honest, I was also not quite aware of Monferrato myself, and as you all know, I like to discover things that are beyond my knowledge, so I was pleased to be able to discover the unique wine heritage of Monferrato for myself. So, what makes it that Monferrato is overshadowed by its more illustrious neighbours, its highly original wine styles deserve more attention.
Ancient Legend to be Told.
In the heart of the Acqui Terme, the High Monferrato district lies the ancestral home of Aleramo, the esteemed progenitor of the renowned Lords of Monferrato. Legend has it that Aleramo hailed from a lineage of German nobility, embarking on a pilgrimage to the sacred lands. Through acts of bravery and nobility, Aleramo captured the attention of Emperor Otto, who, in recognition of his service, pledged him all the lands he could cover on horseback in three days. Ingeniously, Aleramo outfitted his horse with a makeshift shoe crafted from a brick, thus bestowing upon the region its distinctive name, Monferrato (Munfrà in ancient Piedmontese), derived from "mun" for brick and "frà" for shod.
Monferrato as a wine growing region.
You can find Monferrato in the hills east of Turin covering the provinces of Asti and Alessandria in Piemonte. The hills of Monferrato are crossed by the rivers Belbo and Tanaro both running towards the Po river, that flows into the Adriatic Sea.
The overall climate is moderately continental, with cold winters that are yet relatively mild. Temperatures leading up to not more than minus 10 degrees. There are a lot of Mediterranean influences coming from the South. Summers can be extremely hot, certainly the last couple of years having extreme warm summers. The region is protected from cold northerly winds and excessive rainfall by the Alps to the north, and from warm weather systems coming from the Mediterranean by the Apennines. Nevertheless, the region can be subject to thunderstorms, hail and fog, even as late frost can also be a threat.
I think Monferrato is best explained when we divide the region in three different growing areas to name “Basso Monferrato of Cesalese”, “Monferrato Astigiano” (Astesan Montferrat), and "Alto Monferrato”.
Basso Monferrato of Cesalese
Low hilly area, except for the Holy Mountain of Crea being 455m above sea level. It sees more flatlands surrounding Casale, a part of the Alessandria Province. It is cornered by the rivers Po and Tanaro.
Monferrato Astigiano
Covers a big part of the Asti province, except for Langa Astigiani. Asti forms the geographical centre of the region. It is a hilly area, where Albugnano mountain reaches up to 549m above sea level. It covers the historical towns of Nizza and Canelli. Canelli being the capital of Piemonte’s sparkling wines The region is bordered by the river Belbo.
Alto Monferrato
You’ll find Alto Monferrato south of Bormida all the way to Liguria. To the west you’ll find the Bormida Spigno Valley and to the east the Scrivia Valley. Its most important town is Acqui Terme, a place known for its Spa’s and ancient hot springs, and home to Brachetto.
Image Source: Consorzio Barbera d’Asti e Vini Del Monferrato
Let’s dig up some dirt on Monferrato Soils
The Monferrato we see today took its form over 2 million years ago. Where it was still covered with water, and when the water withdrew itself back towards the Adriatic Sea, it created what is now the Po Valley. The soils here are generally poor in organic matter, resulting in low fertility soils. Here we generally find two major soil types: the white soils (marl – limestone) and the Asti sands.
White Soils: Marl, Limestone Soils
Rich in calcium carbonate and found on the soft glowing hills. These soils are the oldest, and can be found in the area near Canelli, the southern parts of the Asti province, in the province of Alessandria and near Casale Monferrato. The wines produced from the grapes that are cultivated on this soil are rich in colour, full-bodied an have an incredible ageing potential.
Asti Sands
Usually found on the steeper hills of Monferrato, alongside the Tanoro riverbanks, in the iddle part of the region that lies in the province of Asti. The grapes grown on Asti sands produce wines that are characterised by lower acidity levels and are the more easier drinking wines, they mature faster than their neighbours from the white soils.
Some Facts about Consorzio Barbera d’Asti e Vini Del Monferrato
- 400 associated wineries
- 13 designations of Origin
- 4 DOCG’s: Barbera d’Asti, Nizza and Rucé di Castagnole Monferrato; Terre Alfieri
- 9 DOC’s: Albugnano, Cortese dell’Alto Monferrato, Dolcetto d’Asti, Freisa d’Asti, Grignolino d’Asti, Loazzolo, Malvasia di Castelnuovo Don Bosco, Monferrato and Piemonte.
Indigenous Varieties are Synonym to Monferrato
Where we now know that Barbera is the red variety that speaks through the hills of Monferrato and beyond), when you’ve read my previous article, Barbera d’Asti a wine we must look out for, but there are so many other interesting red varieties that make Monferrato an indulgence when it comes to wine pairing or to those who like to discover exciting wines. In my personal tasting notes, you can read all about the wines sorted per different grape variety down below the page. To more known white grape varieties grown in the region are Cortese (Gavi) and Moscato (Moscato D’Asti).
Ruché
Is one of the rarest black indigenous grape varieties cultivated in the Monferratio Astigiano district. It has quite large, not very compact bunch with berries of medium size with a thick skin. These wines are quite floral, violets, rose, geranium, with red fruit characteristics like marasca cherries, brambles and black peppery notes, lively friendly acidity, and a good mouthful of tannins. When grown on the white soils around Castagnolo, it gives the most refined wines. Ruché even has its own DOCG within Monferrato, that makes outstanding wines. You can find several tasting notes below from this incredibly interesting variety.
Ruché di Castagnole Monferrato DOCG – 123 ha.
Blend of min 90% Ruchè with a maximum of 10% in Barbera and/or Brachetto. Vineyards planted at min 120m - max at 400m altitudes above sea level. Min. 12.5% abv allowed.
Aged: Riserva or Vigna, min 2 years (incl. 1 year in oak).
Grignolino
Licht coloured black grape variety, with high acidity and loads of tannins, coming from the region of Asti. The name ‘Grignolino’ is derived from the Piedmontese word ‘lot of pits’. Almost all vines are cultivated in Piemonte (96%) with a total of 915 hectares planted. There are some vines in California as well at the Heitz Wine Cellars and Guglielmo Winery.
This variety usually gives light coloured red or rosé wines with good concentration of red fruit characteristics, strong acidity, and present tannins.
According to Olga from Tenuta Foresta, it is a quite difficult variety to cultivate. Grignolino has thick skins, small berries, and a lot of seeds, making extraction quite challenging to say the least. When you macerate them for too long, it gives too many tannins, spiciness, and tends to hide the fruit characteristics. As where you would macerate them too short, you will have a ‘flabby’ wine. So, for her the ideal way is macerate the grapes for about 24 hours to come up with the right balance.
A wine made from Grignolino can be approached two ways, you can either chose to drink it as a light bodied red wine or see it as a strong-willed rosé. Either way this wine will blow your mind away, thus Svetlana from Montalbera winery. You can find several tasting notes below from this variety.
Freisa
A grape that is known to be over 500 years old and has kinship to Nebbiolo. It is a quite aromatic variety. A productive variety and has good disease resistance, becoming quite popular at the end of the 19th century, now it’s becoming less popular, making its way for the more known varieties. Freisa is known for its strong tannins and high acidity. You can find several tasting notes below from this variety.
Albarossa
Red grape mostly grown in Piemonte (82%), but also grown in Liguria. This grape has less than 100ha of plantings. It is often used as a blending component, rather than a single variety wine. I have a single tasting note below from a wine made from Albarossa.
Is There a Future for the Indigenous Varieties of Monferrato.
To those connoisseurs who dare to walk on the wild side?! I would say yes! These wines made from the indigenous varieties of Monferrato all have interesting stories, different heritage and such a characteristic style specific to the variety making them interesting on its own. They are daring, they are bold, they challenge you on your palate, and yet you can grow fond of the wines when you get acquainted with them.
I dare you as a sommelier or specialty shop owner to find yourself a bottle of Grignolino or Freisa or even (if you can get your hands on it) a bottle of Ruché and amaze your guests with something intriguing to put on the table. Something they never heard of that will blow their mind away. Just take the plunge and indulge yourself in a whole new world of red wines to discover.
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My Personal Tasting Notes
During the event of “Monferrato Identity”, hosted by the Consorzio Barbera d’Asti e Vini
del Monferrato and I Vini del Piemonte, mid-March 2024 held in Amsterdam. I have tasted quite a few other red wines alongside Barbera wines made from Monferrato’s indigenous varieties. The overall quality was amazing, and the wines are quite different and making them so interesting. You can uplevel any meal or any conversation with awesome wines like these, if you dare to try them out! Go check out these amazing reds from different winemakers all from Monferrato. If you want to read more about Barbera d'Asti, you can find my article on "Beyond Barolo and Barbaresco; The Rise of Barbera, Piemontes Unsung Hero" here.
Wines Tasted from the Ruché grape variety.
Montalbera Estate
For three generations the Moranda family that owns the Montalbera winery which is rooted in Monferrato and the Langhe regions of Piemonte. Since the 1980s they have been engaging in the cultivation of the rare and indigenous Piemontese grape varieties such as Ruché. Now becoming one of the leading wineries working with these amazing varieties. There diversity in wines is great, they have wines in their portfolio where there is something for everyone to enjoy. Montalbera Estate is searching for an importer on the Dutch market and if you are interested you can reach out to Svetlana@montalbera.it or visit www.montalbera.it.
1. Montalbera, Ruchè di Castagnole Monferrato DOCG “Laccento” 2022 – 14.5%
Location: 100% Ruchè grapes from Castagnole Monferrato, Guyot trained, 20% late harvested grapes. 100% Stainless steel fermentation.
My personal tasting note: Medium ruby colour. Incredible expressive nose with aromas of rose, rosehip, cranberries, candied cherries. On the palate soft tannins, firm body with a good texture yet a friendly wine, juicy acidity.
2. Montalbera - Ruchè di Castagnole Monferrato DOCG “La Tradizione” – 15%
Vinification: Two years large oak
My personal tasting note: The oak is complementary to the wine, still fruit driven, velvety tannins, complexity, red fruit, cranberry, oak, fresh and lovely juicy. Still those expressive notes, and yet a whole different character to this wine because of the oak.
Cascina Valeggia
Well talk about appealing labels, this one has clean aesthetics making it quite appealing, not ‘too much’, just fresh and modern. This winery has a quite diverse portfolio, of which I have tasted several amongst which several indigenous varieties from the Monferrato region. A good quality wines. They are searching for an importer on the Dutch market, if you want to know more, reach out to them: www.cascinavaleggia.it or cascinavaleggia@gmail.com.
3. Cascina Valeggia, La Rej, Ruchè di Castagnole Monferrato DOCG, 2020 – 14%
Location: 100% Ruchè from La Rej vineyard in Moncalvo. Stainless steel fermentation.
My personal tasting note: Incredible expression on the nose with aromas of rose, rosehip, black pepper, cranberry, rosevicee, spice, green peppercorn. The wine is friendly with soft tannins, medium body showing complexity within its flavours. Great length with that juicy and refreshing acidity.
Wines Tasted from the Grignolino grape variety.
4. Agostino Pavia & Figli - Grignolino d’Asti DOC 2022 – 13%
Location: 100% Grignolino from Agliano Terme, 5000 vines per ha, guyot trained. Stainless steel fermentation on the skins for 4-6 days at 26°C. Aged for 6 months on stainless steel.
My personal tasting note: Interesting on the nose with a balance between its fresh red fruit character and its peppery notes. On the palate the wine has ripe still slightly drying tannins, smooth mouthfeel even though it might be a light to medium bodied wine it has much to offer.
5. Cascina Valeggia – Adess, Grignolino d’Asti DOC 2023
My personal tasting note: That spiciness kicks in with this wine that is perfectly balanced to back up the red fruits, making it an interesting experience. Flavours of spice, vegetal, liquorice, tannins bit drying but ripe, light bodied, good finish. Nothing wrong with being a light bodied wine that lingers.
Cascina Vigna
A medium sized winery in Costigliole d’Asti, with its roots dating back to the beginning of the 1900s. Labels that have an authentic look and feel but the wines show modern influences and yet staying authentic to the region. Looking for something to add to your portfolio, Cascina Vigna is searching for an importer on the Dutch market, if you want to know more, reach out to Stefano Gozzelino: www.cascinavigna.com or info@cascinavigna.com.
6. Cascina Vigna - Grignolino d’Asti DOC 2022
Information: More fruit driven then the others we’ve tasted of Grignolino – possible explanation for this by Stefano would be the difference of the terroir, it is grown on white clay soils giving it more powerful flavour profile.
My personal tasting note: That incredible acidity, lovely tannins giving
the wine great texture, light bodied wine, amazing to drink. Flavours and aromas of rosevicee, raspberry, red candied cherries, herbal, spice, more fruit forward than spicy like others we’ve tried.
7. Castino - Grignolino d’Asti DOC ‘Cadaresca’
My personal tasting note: Rose, raspberry, strawberry, soft tannins,
acidity, with age the wine gets more spiciness, dry grass, chamomile.
8. Montalbera - Grignolino d’Asti DOC “Grignè”
Information: Old vineyards, old vines, climate change made sure the tannins got more pleasurable, even though they are still rough. Imagine these varieties back in the day were almost undrinkable.
My personal tasting note: Red fruit forward, spice, rosevicee, strawberry, yoghurt, length. Beautiful body, medium ripe tannins giving the wine incredible texture, juicy acidity making it a pleasure to drink.
9. Tenuta Foresta – Piemonte DOC Grignolino 2021
Location: the Grignolino grapes where planted in 1978 right in front of the winery. | This wine had a short maceration period of just 24h on the skins and seeds and most of the juice is fermented like a rosé. A small part is fermented like a red wine and blended together. | The blend is 87% Grignolino aged in barrique for 1 year, 8% of Albarossa and 5% of Barbera for the colour.
My personal tasting note: Besides the fact that the beautiful cherry red colour is mesmerizing it has an incredible complex nose of fresh red fruits like strawberries, raspberries, red cherries backed up by that spiciness of white and green pepper, slightly herbal. On the palate that refreshing acidity making it indeed an experience of almost drinking a rosé and yet it isn’t. Good firm yet ripe tannins making it an interesting wine to drink.
Wines Tasted from the Freisa grape variety.
Idivini
Two Belgian winemakers that found their home in Monferrato to make their beloved and beautiful wines. The idea behind each wine is fascinating, from the light and refreshing Cortese to be enjoyed every day to the more complex Barbera d’Asti Superiore, there is a wine for everyone. Their labels are truly sophisticated, artsy influence, love it. They are looking for an importer to work with their wines on the Dutch market. You can reach out to them on info@idivini.org or www.ididini.wine.
10. IDivini - Freisa d’Asti Superiore DOC ‘Cadò dla Tèra’ 2019 – 14%
Location: 100% Freisa from Isola d’Asti grown on chalk and limestone soils. Stainless steel fermentation on the skins for 3 weeks, underwent its malolactic fermentation and ageing on oak for 12 months in Barriques.
My personal tasting note: Such power a true ‘powerhouse’, well integrated oak giving the wine amazingly balanced structure with the ripe tannins making it smooth. It is floral with a nose full of black fruits, oak, spice. Its juicy, high acidity giving the wine its deserved freshness. A true Italian experience.
11. Cascina Vigna - Piemonte DOC Freisa -
My personal tasting note: Liquorice, black fruit, menthol, powerful, juicy acidity, chocolate, long lengthy finish, white pepper, vegetal on the nose more than on palate.
Wine Tasted from the Albarossa grape variety.
12. Viotti Vini, Piemonte Albarossa DOC 2017 – 14%
Location: 100% Albarossa grapes from Castel Rocchero, Stainless Steel fermentation. Aged in wooden vats for at least 1 year (Allier) and another year in the bottle.
My personal tasting note: Cranberry, redcurrant, acidity, power, structure, tannins, a wine for thought.
13. Tenuta Foresta, Piemonte Albarossa DOC 2021
Quote from Olga: The alcohol needs the oak to help soften the wine a bit more.
My personal tasting note: This wine is incredibly fresh and fruity and yet that spiciness of the oak making it complementary to each other. Love the balance in the complexity of flavours. Beautiful refreshing wine with well-integrated alcohol, good tannin structure and a medium (+) body.