Image Source: Wine with Margaret – Expo of Wine Yinchuan.

On our first day in Yinchuan, China, and after the opening ceremony held at the Ningxia Grand Theatre, we headed straight to the Expo of Wine at the Yinchuan International Convention Centre.

Want to read more about my other adventures in Ningxia? Then check out my article: “The Rise of Ningxia, Winemaking at the Edge of the Gobi Desert"

In this article, I’ll share my findings on the Chinese wine market based on my brief visit to the Expo of Wine. What you’ll read is mostly my commercial take—covering differences in wine styles, China’s local taste preferences, their import and export market, and where things stand in 2025. I also did a bit of online digging to give you some actual numbers.

My brief Visit to the Expo of Wine

If you’ve ever been to ProWein or Wine Paris, forget the comparison—the Yinchuan International Convention Centre is in a league of its own. It’s massive. Just walking around the exterior takes 10 to 15 minutes, and the inside? Same scale. This is where the annual Expo of Wine is held—grand, polished, and increasingly international. Yes, there were some European names present, but we weren’t there for that. We came to taste China.

After a bit of scouting, my tasting companion and I zeroed in on the smaller wineries—the ones not built for €70 million with faux châteaux and marble columns. We were looking for boutique producers. The ones quietly making wines with identity, not just infrastructure.

We were on the lookout for Chinese wines that felt like they came from China—not just modern-looking labels with a bit of Mandarin, but bottles that carried a cultural vibe. Something you’d hold and think, yes, this is different—this is distinctly Chinese. With a commercial eye, I’m not just tasting what’s in the glass—I’m judging the whole experience. If I buy a Chinese wine, I want the label to reflect that too. Not just Mandarin text on a slick design, but something that says: “This is made in China, and proudly so.”

Image Source: Wine with Margaret - Wine Labels at the Expo: Wine Labels: Western Minimalism vs. Cultural Identity

• Top Row: 4 examples of sleek, modern labels—clean typography, minimal design, no cultural cues aside from Mandarin script.
• Bottom Row: 4 labels that felt unapologetically Chinese—bolder visuals, traditional motifs, storytelling in the design.

Observation: When buying Chinese wine, I want the label to feel Chinese—not just modern with Mandarin thrown on top. Label design here isn’t just aesthetics; it’s part of the full experience.

Can You Judge the Wine by Its Label?

That’s what I kept asking myself as we tasted. Does the look of the bottle actually tell you anything about the wine inside—or is it all just show?

Some labels screamed "export-ready": clean, modern, maybe a touch too clinical. Others had a distinctly Chinese feel—bold, ornate, unapologetically local. And honestly, if I’m drinking Chinese wine, I want the full experience. The label matters. It should reflect the origin, not bury it under Western minimalism with a dash of Mandarin text.

And it’s not just the label. The bottle itself sends a signal. Many wineries still use very heavy glass, because weight is still equated with quality in the local market—it’s still part of the prestige play. But interestingly, I also saw wines in cans and alternative packaging aimed at younger, more casual drinkers. So, while some are sticking to glass as a status cue, others are already breaking the mold—and targeting a completely different drinking occasion.

Now let’s talk price.

In Europe, a bottle of Chinese wine will easily set you back €20 to €60—with €20 already being considered “cheap.” But don’t confuse that with low quality. At the same time, I’ve tasted €80 wines loaded with VA (volatile acidity—think nail polish remover), thin on the palate, with very little to say.

In China, price doesn’t tell the whole story. Reputation does. If you don’t know the producer, you’re gambling.

Different Styles of Chinese Wine

When we asked local trade visitors about the differences between wineries, the answer was clear: the old guard still leans Bordeaux. We’re talking big, concentrated reds—Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, even Marselan—built for age and structure (and yes, some with a good dose of VA, if you ask my nose). These are wines with muscle and pedigree, made in a style that hasn’t changed much since the 1980s.

But there’s a shift happening.

A new generation of winemakers is carving out a different path—lighter styles, fresher expressions, more experimentation. They’re blending heritage with creativity. I tasted a Blanc de Noir made from Malbec (yes, Malbec)—and what we’ve been told several producers were pouring Pét-Nats, natural wines, and varietals that would’ve been unthinkable in China a decade ago.

This new wave is speaking to a younger generation of drinkers—people who don’t want Bordeaux in a Chinese bottle, but something more personal, more playful, and more now.

Honestly, I could’ve spent the entire expo just exploring the smaller, boutique producers—my absolute sweet spot. If anything, this visit just whet my appetite. I’ll be back in Yinchuan again, and next time, I’m going in deep.

China’s Wine Consumption Preferences

Maybe you’ve already guessed it, since Bordeaux styled wines are the wines that they started to make in the first place. But the Chinese do like heavy tannic red wines. And why do I give that statement? With every Chinese taster I’ve tasted over the course of this week, were good with the heavy, drying tannins, where I have difficulty biting through the tannins in the first place, for them the wines are as they prefer. [Mind you, I am not saying this counts for every Chinese person that drinks red wine, but for only those that I have had a taste with.]

It was hard to come by a (good) Chinese white wine though, as I adore a good glass of white wine, especially when it is hot outside, but they were hard to come by. Anyhow here are some factual numbers that I found on Chinabriefing.com.

• Nearly 95% of the total wine consumption in China is red wine, made from Bordeaux varieties that hold an elevated status among Chinese consumers.
• White, Rosé, Sparkling wine are low, compared to the red wine consumption. The Fortified wines are not as popular as any other wine category here.

But needless to say, since the wine drinking generation in China is changing, the white wine category is the fastest growing wine segment now. So, a lot of changes for (new) winemakers to start investing in some extra grounds for some white grape varieties. Main white variety planted now is Chardonnay.

Image Source: Wine with Margaret

China’s Signature on Marselan

The CMB even has a dedicated competition set up for judging wines solely based on Marselan. And needless to say, China is proud of “their Marselan”, they consider it to be their signature variety. Marselan thrives in various Chinese wine regions and producing wines that are well-received by both domestic and international markets. Its adaptability to different climates and soils, combined with its relatively high yields and good quality, makes it a promising grape for the Chinese wine industry. The World Marselan Day is well celebrated in China, often featuring tastings and events, further highlights of the grape’s popularity and importance. Marselan wines from China are being well perceived worldwide.

At the Expo there was a CMB stand dedicated in showcasing some of the award winning Marselan wines from the previous years. I have tasted several (of which some shown on the earlier image with all the wine labels.

Want to read more on my take on China’s Marselan, you can read my article “Why Marselan Might Be China’s Most Promising Red Grape” here.

Now let us dive into China’s wine market, and what is happening on a global stage, how are imports and exports evolving for instance.

China’s Wine Market in 2025: A Shifting Giant with Global Intent

I was genuinely surprised by this: France is currently China’s largest European export market for wine. Yes—France. I do not kid you. Sure, it makes sense that the Chinese drink a lot of Bordeaux. But the reverse? The French drinking Chinese wine? That caught me off guard. And yet, it’s happening—and not just in theory. At the fair, I even heard Switzerland is emerging as a small but premium export market. Money talks.

That’s the macro view—rising exports, shifting imports, and a clear national ambition to step onto the global wine stage. But what about what’s happening inside the glass, on the ground, and in the minds of today’s Chinese wine drinkers? Let’s zoom in.

China’s wine market isn’t standing still. It’s not in free fall—but it is recalibrating. While wine imports are declining, exports are quietly surging, especially to culturally linked or high-end niche markets. That tells us something critical: China no longer sees itself purely as a wine consumer—it wants to be a producer, exporter, and storyteller on the world stage.

Exports Are Gaining Serious Ground

According to OEC, in 2024, China exported $33.2 million worth of wine, with rapid growth in niche and prestige-driven markets.

Top Destinations by Export Value (2024):

• Hong Kong – $23.1M (59.2% of total exports)
• France – $2.79M (5.91%)
  • 🚀 Fastest growing market year-on-year: +$881k
• North Korea – $1.29M (7.61%)
• Macau – $1.2M (1.51%)
  • 🚀 Year-on-year growth: +$626k
• Australia – $603k
• United States – $1.08M (3.25%)
  • 🚀 Year-on-year growth: +$346k

Imports Are Contracting

In the same year, China imported $1.59 billion worth of wine—still massive, but the trend is downward.

Top Countries of Origin for Wine Imports (2024):

• Australia – $588M
• France – $493M
• Chile – $179M
• Italy – $106M
• United States – $51.8M

🔻 Fastest Declines in Import Value (March 2025 YoY):

• France: −$8.15M (−27.9%)
• Chile: −$6.89M (−37.7%)
• United States: −$4.18M (−62.1%)

March 2025: The Export Spike

In March alone, China’s wine exports increased 230% year-over-year.

🌍 Main Drivers of This Growth:

• Hong Kong: +$1.66M (+151% YoY)
• France: +$410k (+4,440% YoY)
• Macau: +$378k (+1,980% YoY)

What This Signals for the Industry

• China is investing in exports—not just in volume, but in perception.
• Importers and distributors need to adjust expectations: China is no longer just a buyer of Bordeaux or Barossa—it’s increasingly a seller.
• Wine brands should treat China as a dual-market opportunity: one to sell into, and increasingly, one to source unique wines from.

Image Source: Wine with Margaret – Top left corner: visit to Chateau Dulaan, right top corner: visiting Chandon Winery in Ningxia for a tasting in the cellars. Bottom left: Visit to Manpu Town, bottom middle: visit to Helanhong Winery and bottom left: Ch. Dulaan’ corkscrew stairs - *Wine Tourism*

Current Industry Trends in China’s Wine Market

Let us step off the trade floor for a moment into China’s wine culture. Because the real action in China’s wine scene isn’t just happening in export figures—it’s happening in how people are drinking wine, what they’re choosing, and why.

From health-driven millennials to curious domestic tourists, Chinese consumers are rewriting the wine playbook. And no—it’s not just a copy-paste of Western trends (anymore).

1. It’s all about the experience

Chinese consumers often respond strongly to products tied to specific occasions. Mulled wine's popularity during the winter festive season demonstrates how aligning wine with seasonal or cultural moments—especially those that are easy to personalize and share on social media—can drive engagement and brand recognition.

Like the wine festival that was held in the old city centre of Yinchuan. Unfortunately, it was not open at the time we were there, but there was a whole street dedicated for the festival with wine and food. Lights, and other imagery “I want wine”, “I love wine”, “Yichuan loves Wine” and statues dedicated to wine like this wooden red wine glass present at the location.

2. “Fit Girl Routine” - Health-Conscious, Low-Alcohol, and Female-Oriented Wine Beverages

Yes, I said that ‘female-oriented wine beverages’.. Health remains a key purchase driver, with growing interest in low-alcohol, alcohol-free, and “healthier” wine options. These trends are particularly relevant for younger and female consumers, who increasingly seek wine products that align with wellness and lifestyle preferences.

3. Demand for Novelty and Differentiation

Chinese wine consumers are increasingly drawn to unique and lesser-known wine styles, such as orange and natural wines. Novel flavours, distinct winemaking methods, and niche grape varieties meet a rising demand for individuality and product differentiation.

4. Wine Tourism and Cultural Experience

Post-pandemic, domestic travel in China has surged, and wine tourism is benefiting. As consumers look for culturally rich and gastronomic experiences, both domestic and international wineries that are well-prepared to engage Chinese tourists can gain exposure, build brand loyalty, and spark word-of-mouth marketing.

5. Changing wine preferences

As we see in Europe, the lighter wine styles get more preference nowadays, and it isn’t just seasonal anymore. As also in China, the white wine category is growing rapidly, still it is a very small part of their annual wine consumption (below 10%), but there is an influx in German white wines, especially Riesling, Spanish wines because they are more fruit driven wines, but also wines from Portugal and Italy are “in” right now.

Clearly, wine in China is no longer just about prestige—it’s becoming personal. That shift in consumer mindset is being matched by an even bigger shift in production. And that was on full display in Yinchuan. They’re actively shaping a new wine culture—one that’s driven by personal identity, health choices, digital influence, and lifestyle alignment.

Which brings us to the producers. Because it’s not just the drinkers who are evolving—the winemakers are moving too. And that shift? It was front and centre in Yinchuan.

Inside the Shift: What China’s Wine Scene Is Telling Us

While standing on the floor of the Expo in Yinchuan, it hit me: this wasn’t just a trade show—it was a preview of where China’s wine scene is headed. Behind the flashy displays and generous pours, I could feel a deeper shift. The producers here weren’t just chasing prestige—they were building identity.

From the glass to the label to the message behind it, the new generation of Chinese wineries is starting to show what they really stand for. And it’s not about looking like Europe—it’s about looking like themselves.

Several clear factors are driving the evolution of China’s wine landscape, and they were on full display at the Expo of Wine in Yinchuan. First, there’s a generational shift underway. While many established wineries still produce Bordeaux-style reds—heavy, tannic, and built for ageing—a younger wave of producers is embracing lighter, more expressive styles, alternative varieties, and even sparkling and natural wines. This diversification speaks to a growing domestic demand for individuality, creativity, and modern drinking occasions.

Second, wine consumption in China is no longer purely about prestige. It’s increasingly about experience. From visually striking labels to wines that resonate with cultural identity or seasonal rituals—like mulled wine at Christmas—Chinese consumers are showing interest in wines that fit specific moments, social contexts, or lifestyle choices.

Third, health-consciousness and the rise of the “she economy” are reshaping preferences, (you've probably never even heard of the term before, no, me neither, nothing like this, before going to China). The low-alcohol, alcohol-free, and “healthier” wine alternatives are gaining traction, particularly among younger, urban women. These trends reflect broader societal changes in how alcohol is perceived and consumed. Like me sipping on a freshly brewed Iced Tea.

Fourth and final, both import and export data suggest that China is not just a consumer market, but also an emerging player on the global wine stage. Domestic producers are gaining ground internationally, and while wine imports are slowing, strategic partnerships and changing agreements—like those with Australia—are reshaping trade dynamics.

Bottom line? China’s wine scene isn’t in an imitation phase anymore—it’s in an identity phase. For anyone in the wine trade, the question isn’t whether to pay attention—it’s how fast you can catch up. So, let’s break it down. What does this all mean for brands trying to sell to China—or compete with it?

Let’s talk strategy.

6 Key Commercial Takeaways for Wine Brands in China

Based on what I saw, tasted, and heard on the ground in Yinchuan, these commercial takeaways I believe matter most. And what does all this mean for wine brands, importers, and marketers trying to navigate the Chinese market—or compete with it? Let me share that with you: here are my 6 key commercial takeaways that stood out from Yinchuan—and why they matter.

1. Stop Trying to Sell Prestige—Sell Relevance

The old approach to China was all about status wines: Bordeaux blends, heavy bottles, faux château packaging, and big tannins. But the younger generation of Chinese wine drinkers is no longer impressed by imported labels alone. They want wine that fits their moment, not just their status.

2. Design Matters—But Cultural Authenticity Matters More

I saw it over and over: Chinese wines trying to look “international” with sleek labels in English or generic modern packaging. But the most interesting, conversation-starting wines were the ones that leaned in their cultural identity—whether that was label art, grape choices, or even naming.

3. Marselan Is China's Signature—Whether the Market Knows It or Not

You can feel it on the ground: China is claiming Marselan as its own. It thrives across multiple regions, performs well in both domestic and international tastings, and has even earned its own competition category with CMB. It's not just a grape—it’s a message: China can do distinctive, high-quality wine on its own terms.

At the Expo, there was a dedicated stand featuring award-winning Marselan wines, and what I tasted backed up the hype. The style is evolving—structured yet accessible, expressive without mimicking the old Bordeaux blueprint.

4. Price ≠ Quality. Trust ≠ Built Overnight.

There’s a serious dissonance between price and product quality in Chinese wine right now. I tasted €20 wines that outperformed €80 bottles. But the average consumer—or even professional—has no roadmap for navigating that.

5. Wine Tourism Is China’s Untapped Brand Machine

I saw glimpses of it—the Chandon cellars, the wine-themed festival street in Yinchuan. But most Chinese wine regions aren’t yet tapping the massive opportunity of experience-first wine branding. Post-COVID, Chinese consumers are traveling domestically and looking for culture + cuisine + content. This is a moment.

6. China’s Wines Are Ready. The Global Market Isn’t.

French wine lovers are drinking Chinese wines. North Korea, Switzerland, and even the U.S. are importing them. But most global consumers still see Chinese wine as a curiosity, not a category.

✨ Final Thought

China isn’t just drinking wine anymore—it’s producing it with purpose, shaping its own narrative, and stepping onto the global stage with a clear identity.

For brands watching from the sidelines, the message is clear: adapt, localize, or be ignored. The future belongs to those who don’t just sell wine in China—but understand what wine means in China.

Image Source: Wine with Margaret

My Ultimate China Conclusion?

Visiting the Expo of Wine in Yinchuan wasn’t just a tasting trip—it was a strategic eye-opener. China’s wine industry isn’t emerging anymore. It’s evolving—with confidence, complexity, and its own commercial DNA.

Yes, you’ll still find heavy reds shaped by Bordeaux’s shadow. But alongside them? Lighter, fresher, more experimental wines designed for a younger, more curious generation.

This market isn’t about prestige-for-import’s-sake anymore. It’s about relevance, resonance, and real storytelling—visually, culturally, and on the palate.

The challenge for wine professionals is this: can you read China’s cues? Can you sell to it, partner with it, or even learn from it? Because this isn’t a novelty market—it’s a future market.

And thanks to the team at Concours Mondial de Bruxelles, I had a front-row seat to that future. Not just in the glasses I tasted—but in the stories, strategies, and ambition behind them.

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For data background the resources I’ve used were.

China’s Wine Market Outlook Trends and Opportunities

Trade Report Import and Export Numbers

EU Wine Exports Declines Across Most Asian Markets Except One