Image Source: Consorzio Barbera d’Asti e Vini Del Monferrato
When Piemonte pops into our mind, we directly link it to Barolo and Barbaresco right? Well, I’m going to talk about the rise of Barbera, Piemonte’s unsung hero. As a bit of wine nerd, I like to taste all kinds of different wines from a specific region, to give myself a better general understanding of how things are. I want to know why certain grapes are grown where (soil, hills or flatlands, aspect, exposure to the sun, you name it) and obvious what influence all that has to the final wine. And I haven’t even taken the choices a winemaker makes into consideration.
So, let’s have a closer look at Barbera d’Asti in the Monferrato region of Piemonte. Any idea why Barbera still silently takes the backseat? I think we must go back way back to the Middle Ages where this variety allegedly originated in the Monferrato hills. In 1512 it found its first historical reference in a cadastral document of the Municipality of Chieri. From that point onwards Barbera spread throughout the area, and soon becoming a wine that farmers would make for home consumption, and everyday ‘average’ wine. That average, every day wine became synonymous creating the identity of Barbera.
For a long time, Barbera has been seen as ‘average’, easy going, not much to say, everyday wine, but let me tell you it couldn’t be further from the truth. Since the 1980s winemakers and vignerons took it a step further and started to look differently towards Barbera and started seeing an incredible variety that had loads of potential, and that is what it proves today. I’m going to tell you why Barbera should be named in the same sentence as Barolo and Barbaresco, even though they aren’t alike at all. You are missing out of something fabulous!
Little Background on Barbera as a Variety
Nowadays Barbera is the most grown variety in Piemonte and covers about 30% of the total vineyard area in Piemonte today, approximately 12,900 hectares. Its origin allegedly lies in the district of Monferrato, and especially concentrates around the towns of Asti and Alba and concentrates predominantly in the provinces of Asti and Alessandria. Here Barbera blossoms into its finest renditions – Barbera d’Asti (Superiore) and Barbera del Monferrato – both bestowed with the esteemed designation of origin (DOC) status in 1970. Where Barbera d’Asti claimed DOCG status in 2008. It is said that the best quality wines come from Asti, as from the 2000 vintage there are three even more prestigious subzones, Nizza, which became a DOCG in 2014, Tinella and Colli Astiani.
Barbera is even widely grown throughout Italy, where it covers the 8th place in the top 10 of most planted varieties, with approximately 19,814 ha, of which Piemonte represents the most plantings. In Lombardy (12%) and Emilia-Romagna (11%) are also quite significant plantings found, and there are other Italian regions where Barbera is grown: Sicily, Umbria, Campania, i.e. Outside the borders of Italy, we find plantings of Barbera in the USA (California), Australia, Argentina, Israel, Mexico, and South Africa.
Image source: I Vini Del Piemonte
Why Barbera is Loved by Vignerons
Barbera is a very versatile, easy adaptable variety that is a highly productive variety without loosing the quality of the fruit when yields are high. Barbera is an early budding variety but is lot the first to bud somewhere first half of April, where it is prone to early spring frost, it can sometimes doge the bullet when the vintage allows it. It ripens medium-late, and harvest is often set in the first half of October. When ripe it the grape displays blue-black, medium-sized berries on average sized bunches.
It is a normal vigorous variety, nevertheless it still performs well, when pruned quite short. And works well with a variety of training methods and pruning techniques, making it a variety that is easy to work with for grape growers. The most common training method used today would be the ‘espalier system with guyot pruning’, leaving just one fruit cane, often trained short and low to the ground. It goes well with different kinds of rootstocks.
By vignerons Barbera is loved because of its reliability to produce, high yielding and very well adaptable to different growth circumstances. Barbera adores the warmth and sunny vintages, but can handle some wet feet, not too much though. Barbera thrives on low fertile, chalky, and clay-limestone soils. Sandy soils control its natural vigour and yields. Even when high yielding, Barbera keeps up its quality quite remarkably. It is less fond of alkaline or salty soils. It is a thin-skinned variety yet has a good colour extraction. It has naturally fresh medium plus acidity levels and low tannin structure.
Barbera is a sturdy variety as well, where it has good drought and wind resistance but is not so fond of the early spring frost. It is quite resistant to downy mildew, nevertheless Barbera being a grape grower’s companion, it is susceptible to other kinds of mould and sour bunch rot. Nowadays the newer clones are more resistant to viruses.
Image Source (L): Consorzio Barbera d’Asti e Vini Del Monferrato & (R) Myself
The Different Nuances of Barbera d’Asti
Barbera d’Asti a wine that embodies old farming traditions, which nowadays is evolving and adapting to the diverse preferences and palates of wine lovers. Barbara is the type of wine you can start your day with. It is enjoyable, fruity, juicy, yet it can be powerful and has a lot to offer, and it is not overly complicated at the same time. Let me give you some of my insights into the two different quality levels, which represent to me two distinct ‘styles’ of Barbera. Of course, you can always find different quality perspectives from different producers, but I mean these styles in general.
Barbera d’Asti DOCG
For this style of wine, it is required to use anywhere between 90-100% Barbera grapes, the other 10% can come from other non-aromatic, red grape varieties grown in Piemonte. Minimum of 12% abv. And the minimum ageing requirements are 4 months from November the 1st year after harvest. They keep up 3-5 years, made to be drunk now, often is of high quality.
For those looking for lovely fruity, easy drinking red wines go for a Barbera d’Asti. It gives you incredibly good value for money and you have a crowd pleaser in your hands. Something different than your ‘ordinary’ Merlot. I’ll promise you this won’t be disappointing at all. You can even drink the wines slightly chilled, seen there are hardly any tannins bothering you. You can buy a good Barbera d’Asti somewhere between € 8,00-15,00 (av.).
Barbera d’Asti Superiore DOCG
For this style of wine, it is required to use anywhere between 90-100% Barbera grapes, the other 10% can come from other non-aromatic, red grape varieties grown in Piemonte. Minimum of 12.5% abv. The grapes for the Superiore wines are selected with meticulous care. The minimum ageing requirements are 14 months from November the 1st year after harvest, which at least six months are spent in wooden barrels and another 6 months in the bottle. It can only be released for sale from January the 1st, two years after harvest. These wines have ageing potential somewhere between 10-15 years, maybe even longer when the right vintage allows. these wines mostly have high – to outstanding quality levels.
When you want something more advanced you are also on the right spot with Barbera d’Asti only now search for the ‘Superiore’ quality. This is a higher-level wine, that can be drunk now, showing more structure often due to the influence of oak, more concentration of fruit characteristics, still supple tannins, slightly more powerful wine, but not too much. Yet these wines have an incredible potential for ageing somewhere between 10-15 years. And again, that value for money, from about € 15,00-30,00 you can already treat yourself to a fantastic bottle of Superiore.
Image source: I Vini Del Piemonte
The Future of Barbara
So, why does Barbera deserve a podium amongst Barolo and Barbaresco? Barbera today, stands as a beacon of evolution in winemaking, continually refining its essence with each stride forward in viticultural and oenological knowledge. Its quality and quantity intersect to cater to a wide, inquisitive, and discerning audience, solidifying its stature as one of Italy's premier red wines.
Since the 1980s, Barbera d’Asti took it a step further, when a group of producers put their best efforts into enhancing Barbera’s overall quality through better vineyard practices and cellar management. Taking a better look to their terroir and work their lands with love and respect and that is showcasing into the wines today.
The taste of wine consumers nowadays has evolved, and where the younger generation seem to prefer more easier approachable wines, the wine industry in Monferrato has jumped on that train of modernisation without losing their original touch. The wines have evolved showcasing such diversity in all kinds of wine styles. Wines that can please a broad audience and that awesome value for money I just can’t get over it, there is something for everyone. For the novice wine drinker that wants to discover something different than just Merlot and then there are the ‘Superiore’ wines for those that want to explore often chosen by the more experienced tasters that seek the complexity, and those layers of development, with a lot of fruit hidden in the back of your palate.
The wines are almost always fermented in stainless steel tanks at moderately warm temperatures somewhere between 25-27°C, to maintain its fresh fruit characteristics. The naturally low tannin structure of the grape making it likable for many. Different winemaking techniques are used to add layers of complexity to the wine, like letting the wines sit on their (gross) lees for 6-12 months, still in stainless steel to preserve its fruit, but to give the wine more body and structure. The addition of small (partially new) barrels to larger tonneaux, giving a velvety and rounder mouthfeel, and every other choice that a winemaker can make.
Luckily Barbera is growing its international acclaim, as it should, in my opinion, a very versatile variety that is just a pleasant glass of wine to enjoy anytime of the week. In the Netherlands you’ll hardly hear anyone talk about Monferrato or Barbera for that matter and to my view that needs to change.
When we look at the wine category, Italian wine is of high interest amongst the Dutch wine consumer and yet, not many have heard of Barbera let alone tasted it, there is just not much to chose from. Barbera as a wine, will be or better said is an overall crowd pleaser to many. I genuinely believe this article gives you a refreshing insight in something ‘new’, something different a wine style we need to start looking for. Barbera d’Asti and other wines from Monferrato for sure. It will be an incredible value for money to fill in a white spot in your wine category or an addition to your wine list.
My Personal Tasting Notes
During the event of “Monferrato Identity”, hosted by the Consorzio Barbera d’Asti e Vini del Monferrato and I Vini del Piemonte, mid-March 2024 in held in Amsterdam. Here I have tasted quite a few different Barbera’s in all styles, from different sub regions all within the boundaries
of Monferrato. The overall quality of all the wines just blew me away! There is another article on "the other varieties" that make the wines from Monferrato worth while to keep an eye out for, You can read the article "Monferrato a Unique Wine Heritage Revealed" here, but first I’ll give the podium to Barbera which it genuinely deserves.
Tenuta Foresta
Is a small young woman owned winery, owned by Olga Semencha in Piemonte. The moment I saw her wine labels, I immediately fell in love with the brand, and after I met her in person, I knew the wines were worthwhile a story to be told. Find out more about the rest of her wines in my article on Monferrato itself. Olga's wines can already be found and bought in the Netherlands, and you can contact Tinc Set Wijn in Zeist when you are interested.
1. Tenuta Foresta - Barbera d’Asti DOCG 2023 – 13.5%
Location: 100% Barbera grapes from Isola d’Asti. Stainless steel fermentation and bottled only end of February 2024, I’ve tasted it three weeks later.
My personal tasting note: Medium ruby colour with a purple rim. Medium intensity on the nose of fresh red fruits like; cherry, raspberry, herbal, pepper, red plum, chalky minerality. Refreshing medium plus acidity, medium bodied wine, with supple soft tannins, fresh easy drinking wine, with a great juicy finish. Drink now while its lovely crisp, young and fresh. It tickles your taste buds.
2. Tenuta Foresta - Barbera d’Asti DOCG Superiore 2020
Notes: Had 3 days of cold soaking. As ‘Superiore’ also indicates, this wine has seen 1 year in Tonneaux.
My personal tasting note: Deep ruby colour. This Barbera is from a whole other level, it is more rustic, and robust. With medium plus acidity, medium plus body with velvety soft tannins, notes of leather, earth, black tea, tobacco, darker fruit like black plums, black cherry. It shows complexity in its flavours and good concentration of fruit on the palate, a lengthy finish making it an enjoyable wine.
Serra Domenico
Is an incredible winery where tradition, passion, and the search for excellence with respect for their long heritage all coming together in the newest generation running the winery. They are looking for an importer on the Dutch market, are you interested, in crying their wines? Reach out to them at www.serradomenicovini.it, info@serradomenicovini.it.
3. Serra Domenico – Barbera d’Asti DOCG “La Padrona” 2021 - 15%
Location: 100% Barbera grapes from Agliano Terme, the grapes grow at 250m above sea level. South facing vineyards, where the vines are guyot trained. The wine underwent 48 hours of skin maceration at 8-10°C. Fermentation on the skin for 8-10 days at 25-26°C. On average it stays on its lees for 5-6 months in stainless steel tanks.
My personal tasting note: More concentration of aromas on the nose, deep ruby colour with a purple hue. Medium plus acidity, supple, velvety tannins, medium plus body. showcasing flavours of red cherry, rosehip, liquorice, yoghurt, plum, raspberry, herbal influence. Good sturdy finish.
4. Vinchio Vaglio - Barbera d’Asti DOCG “Vigne Vecchie 50” 2021 - 14.5%
Location: 100% Barbera grapes from 50-year-old vines from the region Vinchio at an altitude of 250m above sea level, 4,000 vines / ha. Clay, sandy soils, south facing slopes. The vines are guyot trained. And this wine underwent stainless steel fermentation, aged in the tank for 12 months and afterwards it aged for another six months on the bottle before release. A cooperative since 1959, that surely knows how to make good quality wine from Monferrato.
My personal tasting note: Great concentration on the nose, with aromas of red cherry, raspberry, yoghurt, black plum, earthy notes. Ruby colour with purple rim, medium plus, lovely juicy acidity, more power, structure, supple but drying tannins, medium plus body, with ripe fruit and good concentration of flavour. Great length.
5. Emanuele Gambino - Barbera d’asti DOCG Superiore 2020 - 15%
Location: 100% Barbera grapes from Costigliole d’Asti, the vines are guyot trained, south facing slopes. The vines grow on clay and chalk soils, fermentation on the skins for 15 days in stainless steel at 26°C. Aged for 12 months in large oak vats and an additional 8 months in bottle.
My personal tasting note: Medium intensity on the nose, some volatile acidity, with aromas of cranberries, raspberry, plum, cherry, herbal, lavas, liquorice. Lovely refreshing, medium plus acidity. The wine has a medium plus body, with soft, velvety medium plus, well integrated tannins, and a good finish.
6. Boeri Vini - Barbera d’asti DOCG Superiore “Pörlapà” 2019 – 15.5%
Location: 100% Barbera grapes from Costigliole d’Asti. 6,000 vines / ha, south/southeast facing slopes. Limestone and mixed clay soils. Fermentation on the skins for 7-8 in stainless steel, Aged for 12 months in mix of barriques of which also Slavonian Oak.
My personal tasting note: Beautiful ruby colour. Medium intensity on the nose, a more traditional style Barbera. More rustic, powerful and darker fruit influences like black cherry, black plum, bramble, leathery notes, showing signs of development yet still so lively. Lovely tannins given from the oak, a wiff of vanilla, still very young.
Tenuta Tenaglia
A winery that values ‘less is more’, so they strive for high quality when crafting their wines. With great dedication ever since the beginning of the 70s. This self-established winery is set to produce wines of the indigenous varieties of Monferrato, like Barbera, Grignolino and their award-winning wines. Tenuta Tenaglia is searching for an importer on the Dutch market, if you want to know more, reach out to them: www.latenaglia.com, info@latenaglia.com
7. Tenuta Tenaglia - Barbera d’asti DOCG Superiore “Emozioni” 2018 – 14.5%
Location: 100% Barbera from Serralunga di Crea at an altitude of 400-450m above sea level, guyot trained vines. The vines grow in marly, clay soils. The fermentation takes place at 28°C, aged for 12 months in French barriques (Tronçais and Allier ) + additional 12m on the bottle.
My personal tasting note: Medium intensity on the nose with notes of almonds, vanilla, raspberry, cranberry, red current, supple tannins, drying medium body, great length.
8. Il Botolo - Barbera d’asti DOCG Superiore 2017 – 14.5%
Location: 100% Barbera grapes from Nizza Monferrato grown at an altitude of 200m above sea level. Grown at 5,000 vines per ha, about 25-year-old vines, all guyot trained. Soils contain a lot of clay. The wine underwent a stainless-steel fermentation and was aged for 6 months on a mix of French oak barrels.
My personal tasting note: Lively ruby red colour, already showing some garnet nuances. medium intensity on the nose with ripe fruit characteristics of cherries, raspberry, figs, bramble, slightly raisined, Showing signs of ageing leather, earth, coffee grind, chocolate. Some oak influence but subtle, vanilla, toast. This wine is more rustic and robust, it has medium plus, still lively fresh acidity, medium plus body with smooth supple tannins and yet bit drying due to the influence of oak. Good lengthy finish.
Cascina Valeggia
Well talk about appealing labels, this one has clean aesthetics making it quite appealing, not ‘too much ’, just fresh and modern. This winery has a quite diverse portfolio, of which I have tasted several amongst which several indigenous varieties from the Monferrato region. A good quality wines. They are searching for an importer on the Dutch market, if you want to know more, reach out to them: www.cascinavaleggia.it or cascinavaleggia@gmail.com.
9. Cascina Valeggia - Barbera d’Asti DOCG “Detai” 2022 – 14.5%
Note: Stainless steel fermentation
My personal tasting note: Medium ruby colour with a purple hue. Showing medium plus intensity fresh fruit characteristics on the nose, like prunes, blackberry, red cherry, raspberry. On the palate, medium plus, juicy fresh acidity, medium body, with supple tannins and a good finish.
10. Cascina Valeggia - Barbera d’Asti DOCG Superiore “Peringrid” 2021 – 14%
Note: Spend 2 years in French oak barriques plus another 6 months on the bottle.
My personal tasting note: Deep ruby colour, with medium plus intensity of riper fruit characteristics on the nose. Medium plus lively acidity, medium plus body being more rustic, more powerful, slightly drying tannins due to the influence of the oak. On the palate displaying more spice like nutmeg, ginger, cinnamon, vanilla, black fruit characteristics and slightly raisined. Lengthy finish.
In conversation with Stefano, taking me through all his wines. They also have various other wines, you'll find some more in my article on Monferrato.
Cascina Vigna
A medium sized winery in Costigliole d’Asti, with its roots dating back to the beginning of the 1900s. Labels that have an authentic look and feel but the wines show modern influences and yet staying authentic to the region. Looking for something to add to your portfolio, Cascina Vigna is searching for an importer on the Dutch market, if you want to know more, reach out to Stefano Gozzelino: www.cascinavigna.com or info@cascinavigna.com.
11. Cascina Vigna - Barbera d’Asti DOCG 2022
My personal tasting note: Medium ruby colour with a purple hue. Showing medium intensity fresh fruit characteristics on the nose, like red cherry, red plum, raspberry, even slightly floral. On the palate, medium plus, lovely refreshing acidity, medium plus body, with supple well integrated tannins and a good lengthy finish. Overall, a very pleasant and easy-going wine.
12. Cascina Vigna - Barbera d’Asti DOCG Superiore 2021 – 15.5%
My personal tasting note: When we are talking about the Superiore you instantly have a different wine, powerful, explosive even on the darker fruit characteristics on the nose. Showcasing black fruits like prunes, bramble, black cherry, blackberries. Showing more complexity in spice, liquorice, and notes of chocolate. Lively fresh medium plus acidity, medium plus body with well-integrated tannins being velvety and soft. Good robust lengthy finish. The alcohol levels are high, but hardly detectable, well-balanced wine.
Image Source: Myself, "Tasting is a serious business"
iDivini
Two Belgian winemakers that found their home in Monferrato to make their beloved and
beautiful wines. The idea behind each wine is fascinating, from the light and refreshing Cortese to be enjoyed every day to the more complex Barbera d’Asti Superiore, there is a wine for everyone. Their labels are truly sophisticated, artsy influence, love it. They are looking for an importer to work with their wines on the Dutch market. You can reach out to them on info@idivini.org or www.ididini.wine.
13. iDivini - Barbera d’Asti DOCG “Pian di Rös” 2019 - 13.4%
Location: 100% Barbera grapes from Isola d’Asti, grown on lime and loamy soils. 3 weeks of skin maceration in stainless steel. Aged for 6 months in stainless steel and another 4 months on the bottle.
My personal tasting note: Beautiful, lively ruby red colour, with fresh red fruit characteristics on the nose like red cherries, raspberries, currants. Medium plus fresh acidity, medium bodied wine with supple easily accessible tannins, good finish. Pleasant to drink now.
14. iDivini - Barbera d’Asti DOCG Superiore “Sotto la Luna” 2019 – 14%
Location: 100% Barbera grapes from Isola d’Asti, grown on lime and loamy soils. After hand harvest and careful grape selection, the wine underwent 3 weeks of skin maceration in stainless steel. Aged for 12 months in small wooden barrels.
My personal tasting note: Beautiful, lively ruby red colour, with fresh red fruit characteristics on the nose like red cherries, raspberries, currants, spice, vanilla, nutmeg. Medium plus lively acidity, medium plus bodied wine with well-integrated velvety tannins, showcasing a lovely complex wine with a good finish.