Image Credit: Vins de Corse
As March started to unfold its crisp vine tendrils across Corsica, I found myself amidst an intoxicating symphony of aromas and flavours at the 11th Vini Bio wine fair. Organised with finesse by non-other than Ghislaine Melman from Melman Communications, this event was a true celebration of all organic and biodynamic wines, drawing oenophiles like me to see what’s ‘out there’ and trending. Amidst the mosaic of wines showcased, it was the lesser-known regions from Greece to Bugey, Ardèche, Moravia (Czech Republic), Slovakia to Corsica that obviously grasped my attention as usual, particularly Corsica – an island pulsating with history, culture, and a viticultural legacy waiting to be discovered.
With all my curiosity about the not so known regions I followed the masterclass (translated) “Discover the wines of Corsica – where organic / biodynamic is the norm for top quality wines.” Nestled like a precious jewel in the Mediterranean Sea, Corsica emerges as a land of untamed beauty and vinous riches. At the fair, my journey led me to a masterclass unveiling the enigmatic allure of Corsican wines, guided by Olivier Schutte of "The Geluksdruif" wine import. In the span of a 90 minutes or so, Olivier whisked us away on a sensorial voyage showcasing us 17 Corsican wines, unravelling the essence of Corsican winemaking – where tradition intertwines seamlessly with innovation, and each sip tells a tale of resilience and reverence. Let me share why Corsican wines can become the next best thing on your wine list, to sell at your wineshop or put it on your own table amongst friends.
Let me introduce to you…
Corsica, a mountainous and vinous island in the Mediterranean Sea, just miles from the coast of Provence. An island with such long history even Napoléon Bonaparte was born to wealthy Corsican vineyard owners here on the island, in Ajaccio to the west. Corsica an island where the mountains roam the centre of the island, and the vineyards grow close to the coast. An Island that sees the sun for over 3,500 hours a year, little rainfall during the winter months. Because of its ideal climate organic and biodynamic farming is just a logical result. About 40% of all vineyards are certified organic / biodynamic, in reference to mainland France it being 20%. Let me tell you what Corsica and its incredibly versatile wines all are about.
When you want to read more about Corsica and its climate, geography, its different growing
regions than read this article. [LINK]
Some Interesting Facts and Figures
- 5798 hectares under vines
- 1 IGP – Île de Beauté (Island of Beauty)
- 9 AOP’s – of which five DCGs
- 293 Producers
- 133 Private Cellars
- 4 Cooperatives (with 160 vignerons supplying the grapes)
- 375,521 hectolitres of wine / 50 million bottles produced per year.
- 70% rosé production
- 17% red wine production
- 13% dry and sweet white wine production
Corsica’s Growing Regions in a Nutshell
Vin de Corse AOC (or just Corse AOC) is a regional appellation that encompasses the entire island. However, its largest production zone lies along the eastern coast, in 2020 this region produced about 80% of all Corsica’s AOC wine.
Within Corse AOC, there are five denominations géographiques complémentaires. Each is labelled with “Corse” preceding its specified zone of production.
- Corse Coteaux du Cap Corse (North)
- Corse Calvi (Northwest)
- Corse Sartène (Southwest)
- Corse Porto-Vecchio (Southeast)
- Corse Figari (South)
There are three other AOCs that are responsible for Corsica’s wine production, where one is specifically for fortified Muscat wines.
- Patrimonio AOC
- Ajaccio AOC
- Muscat du Cap Corse AOC
Below this article, you will find all the wines we’ve tasted based upon their geographical location within Corsica. The number in front of the wine is the order in which we tasted the wines.
Corsica’s Indigenous Varieties
Corsica is an island full of indigenous sometimes almost extinct grape varieties, where the young vignerons are working hard in recovering their heritage. The varieties that you will come across the most are for the red varieties: Niellucciu, Sciaccarello, Grenache, Aléatico, Carcajolo, Carignon, Cinsaut, Morrastel, Mourvèdre and Syrah. Where Niellucciu, a Sangiovese clone is, it is the most planted red variety on the island and has been cultivated here for over 1,000 years. Sciaccarello is the second most planted red variety.
For white varieties, Vermentino, is the most widely planted variety and utilised not only for white AOC production but it can also be incorporated into most rosés and reds. Other white varieties found here i.e. Biancu Gentile, Codivarta, Genovèse, ugni Blanc, Muscat à Petits Grains Blanc.
Sipping Terroir or Rare Varieties?
In recent years, Corsican winegrowers, started to recognise their extraordinary heritage of winemaking in their region, stepping on a journey towards top quality winemaking. Unified under the banner of "Vins de Corse," they showcase the wisdom and expertise handed down through generations. Embracing their heritage traditions while embracing innovation, they champion the selection and enhancement of indigenous grape varieties, harnessing modern technologies in vinification, bottling, and aging to continually refine their craft. Rooted in the timeless ethos of winemaking, they tirelessly pursue perfection, honouring a legacy of knowledge and skill that must be safeguarded, enriched, and perpetuated. These principles are the foundation of their triumphs.
Currently, two-thirds of Corsica’s total production is produced by co-operatives, of which four or five big companies are responsible for the majority of that.
But it is the private sector, where things are happening, they are creating rumour and a significant buzz. Private domaines are charging good (value for) money for artisanal bottlings made by their young vignerons. The youngsters are intending on recovering old, historic varieties cultivated under organic or biodynamic farming practices. Something truly unfortunate to my opinion, getting INAO approval for these unusual varieties like Brustianu, Cualtacciu and Riminese (w) and Muresconnu (r) has proven so challenging that many of these avant-garde wines are simply bottled as Vin de France. So, don’t let that fool you of a quality indicator when buying a Corsican wine.
The so-called trending “terroir wines” are not in vogue on the island. The wines commandeering the most expensive prices are the above listed ‘rare variety’ wines. And to say so myself, those rare varieties capture terroir in all its essence am I right?
Rosé wine is good for nearly 70% of all wine production on the island, and in contrast to trends in mainland France, Corsica is NOT trying to corner a piece of the upscaling rosé market worldwide. They already consume 35% of their total wine production on the island itself, and most of the rest goes to mainland France (45%). About 20% is exported, luckily, we can get our hands on quite a list of wines in the Netherlands, because of Olivier.
Wine Tourism the Future for Corsica?
Interestingly not, the island is not interested in promoting luxury (wine) tourism. Even though viticulture is Corsica’s most important agricultural activity; dairy being it’s second. Corsica is more for capitalising on its rugged rough island terrain, embracing ecotourism and cultivating those that wish to walk on the wild side here. Here, that sentiment applies to grape and wine as well.
Corsica, with its rugged terrain and sun-drenched vineyards, epitomises the essence of organic and biodynamic winemaking. As I bid adieu to the intoxicating aromas and flavours that danced on my palate, I am reminded that Corsican wines are not just beverages; they are a testament to the island's indomitable spirit and unwavering commitment to quality. With each bottle uncorked, Corsica invites us to embrace its terroir, celebrate its heritage, and embark on a journey of discovery that transcends borders and boundaries. Cheers to Corsican wines – a treasure trove waiting to be explored, savoured, and cherished.
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Resources
Vins de Corse official website.
My Personal Tasting Notes per Growing Region
2. Clos Venturi ‘le clos’ 2021
Variety: Vermentino
My Personal Tasting Note: Medium plus acidity, chalk, wet stones, orange blossom, easy going, citrus peel, nicely balanced, medium body, lovely wine to start off this tasting.
Vin du Corse AOC
13. Domaine Vico “U Fornu” 2020
Blend: Niellucciu - Minestellu
My Personal Tasting Note: Juicy, red cherry, bit smoky, medium plus acidity, medium plus ripe, yet drying tannins, almonds, vanilla. Still young to its age I would say, give it another year or two. But if you want to drink it, decanting would be a good option, and best served with a lovely meal.
Vin du Corse AOC
1. Domaine ‘Alzipratu “Fiumeseccu” 2021
Blend: 50/50 Vermentino, Bianco Gentile, no oak
My Personal Tasting Note: Salinity, salty, liquorice, blossom, refreshingly juicy, light intensity on the nose. Good texture, moderate well-balanced acidity.
Corse Calvi DGC
7. Domaine ‘Alzipratu - Pumonte elegante 2021
Variety: Sciacacarellu - rosé
My Personal Tasting Note: Bit volatile on the nose (nail polish) at first, soft red berries, tomato leaf, slight texture giving it bite medium bodied, good finish. Salmon light pink colour, strawberry, red candied cherries, and good acidity. Lovely!
Corse Calvi DGC
6. Bonifacio “Tarra di Sognu” 2021
Blend: Riminese, Bianco Gentile, Genovese, Carcajolo bianco, Vermentino
My Personal Tasting Note: Soft vanilla touch on the nose, medium plus body with high acidity, smooth and creamy. Oak is prevalent on the palate but not overwhelming, ‘just right’, on the nose a subtle hint of oak detected.
Corse Figari DGC
15. Clos Canarelli “Alta Rocca” 2019
Variety: Sciacacarellu
My Personal Tasting Note: Light scarlet ruby colour, biscuit, toast, smote, red fruit, vanilla, chocolate, cherries, raspberry. Medium bodied, beautiful finish with a lovely complexity. Like to drink this wine more often.
Corse Figari DGC
8. Faustine Vieilles Vignes 2022
Variety: Sciacacarellu – vieilles vignes - rosé
My Personal Tasting Note: High, juicy acidity, biters, red cherry, good light tannin structure, raspberry, medium body. Good concentration of flavours The bitters where a bit too much for me, but with food I reckon a good companion.
Ajaccio AOC
14. Faustine Vieilles Vignes 2021 Comte Abbatucci
Blend: Sciaccarellu- Niellucciu
My Personal Tasting Note: Red currants, cherry, refreshing, bit greenish, toasty, vanilla, moderate ripe and velvety tannins, medium bodied.
Ajaccio AOC
3. Antoine Arena “Carco Vermentino” 2021
Variety: Vermentino, chalk soils
My Personal Tasting Note: Pure, light, salty, lemon, crisp apple, juicy acidity, medium body, good length.
Patrimonio AOC
4. Antoine-Marie Arena “B.G” Biancu Ghjentile 2022
Variety: Biancu Gentile with oak
My Personal Tasting Note: Butter, ripe tropical fruit, mango, pineapple, texture, vanilla, more alcohol presence, drying texture on the palate, it has quite a bite! I like it!
Patrimonio AOC
5. Santamaria “Cyclone” 2022
Blend: Vermentino, Muscat, barrique
My Personal Tasting Note: To me, slightly too reductive on the nose, which was a shame, because the taste was just something else. Lovely floral notes from the muscat and its crisp green apple and lemony notes from Vermentino. Juicy medium plus acidity, medium body.
Patrimonio AOC
9. Stéphanie Olmeta “Olmeta rosé” 2021 - Vin de France
Variety: Nielliucciu – Natural made rosé wine, in Patrimonio
My Personal Tasting Note: Beautiful dark pink colour (see above), floral, raspberry, strawberry, little residual sugar but well balanced by its refreshing acidity. Red cherry fruit.
Patrimonio AOC
10. Santamaria “Tranoï” 2022
Blend: Nielliucciu - Grenache
My Personal Tasting Note: Hint of Brett on the nose, high acidity, red cherry, almonds, medium plus body, medium plus ripe, still bit drying tannins. Good length.
Patrimonio AOC
11. Jean-Baptiste Arena “Grotte di Sole” 2020
Variety: Niellucciu
My Personal Tasting Note: Residue in the glass. Slight reductive, moussiness, brett. Cherry, Almond, high acidity. Wasn’t the wine for me.
Patrimonio AOC
12. Domaine Giudicelli 2017 - Unfiltered
Variety: Nielliucciu
My Personal Tasting Note: “Such a lovable wine”, high acidity, good tannin structure, medium plus body. Its juicy, red cherries, almonds, wild red berries.
Patrimonio AOC
17. Orenga de Gaffory Rappo Vin de Liqueur NV
Variety: Aleatico
Something special from Corsica, only 5 wineries make it. This wine is blend of 15 vintages.
My Personal Tasting Note: Brown sugar, high but well integrated alcohol, balanced by the acidity and the sugar. Marzepain, biscuit, vanilla, almonds, raisins, dates, chocolate, such complexity. I like wines like these, I truly like the element of surprise.
Patrimonio AOC
16. Stéphanie Olmeta Muscat de Cap Corse 2017
Variety: Muscat à Petit Grains Blanc
My Personal Tasting Note: Sweet, floral, muscat, orange peel, orange blossom, full bodied, juicy acidity. Well balanced.
Muscat de Cap Corse AOC